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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Tom Levitt, Maïa Courtois and Simon Mauvieux in Épernay

Champagne’s sordid secret: the homeless and hungry migrants picking grapes for France’s luxury winemakers

A bucket of grapes with a vine-cutting tool on top
Workers say they harvested grapes for up to 12 hours a day with very little to eat. Unions say working conditions are going backwards in the champagne industry and blame the sector as a whole for failing to ban exploitative labour providers Photograph: Valentina Camu/Divergence for The Guardian

A Guardian investigation has found that workers in France’s champagne industry are being underpaid and forced to sleep on the streets and steal food to stave off hunger. Workers from west Africa and eastern Europe in the town of Épernay, home to the headquarters of some of the world’s most expensive champagne brands, including Moët & Chandon and Mercier, claim that they are either not being paid for their work or illegally underpaid by vineyards near the town.

The Guardian found workers in the town sleeping on the streets or in tents as the vineyards did not provide accommodation. Other workers staying in a nearby village said they had been forced to steal food from local people as they did not have anywhere to buy provisions.

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