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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Emma Cook

Castles, causeways and crab sandwiches in Northumberland

To the sea: the sand dunes near Alnmouth.
To the sea: the sand dunes near Alnmouth. Photograph: Ashley Cooper/Getty Images

1 Craster, a short drive from Alnwick, is a charming fishing village with a rugged coastline, crashing waves and bracing coastal walks. It is also a foodie delight. The Jolly Fisherman (thejollyfishermancraster.co.uk) is ideally placed to enjoy the sea views. In its airy conservatory at the back of the pub, you can tuck into a feast of fresh fish on the daily menu, including crab, North Sea prawns, moules frites, salmon &and haddock fishcakes. Outside the pub, you’ll notice a distinctive smoky aroma, no surprise as the shop opposite, L Robson & Sons, is home to the kipper, smoking fish on its site since 1856 and now awarded grade 11-II listed status.

2 Chances are that a stay in Northumberland will include rain, which is when Bamburgh Castle (bamburghcastle.com) really comes into its own. Less overrun with tourists than Alnwick, it’s also cheaper. Overlooking an epic sweep of beach and perched above the sand dunes, this 900-old castle has 14 rooms to explore, from the medieval kitchen to the Victorian Kings Hall, along with a fascinating history from its Norman origins to the current family living there.

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