Can the UK kick its cod habit? Fish and chip shop favourite slips down the menu as prices soar

Traditional fish and chips has faced a barrage of pressures, from Brexit and dwindling fish quotas to inflation caused by wars, sending cod prices soaring. Photograph: mtreasure/Getty Images

In late April, visitors to Harbour Lights in Falmouth, Cornwall, may have raised an eyebrow. The fish and chip shop was in the midst of a “cod-free week”, its owners having removed cod from its menu entirely.

It was the second time owner Pete Fraser had undertaken the experiment, 15 years after the first. He also removed cod from his shops in Penzance and Helston, replacing it with coley, pollack, hake and hoki. The result was very different. “Some of the feedback we had, which certainly wasn’t what we got when we ran it years ago, is ‘Can you repeat this?’ Before, it was like, ‘Have you guys lost your head’?”