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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Comment
Anita Chaudhuri

Buffets are back – and I can already feel myself losing self-control

First in the queue for the UFOs (unidentified food offerings).
First in the queue for the UFOs (unidentified food offerings). Photograph: zoff-photo/Getty Images/iStockphoto

I recently received an invitation that made me happy for about 10 seconds until I noticed the words guaranteed to instil dread in my heart: “A buffet lunch will be served.” I felt a sense of outrage, too, because surely, since Covid, buffets have been consigned to the food waste bin of history.

Something weird happens to me when I am confronted with a trestle table groaning with UFOs (unidentified food offerings). Rather than being rational and deciding on a sensible food combination, I abandon all culinary common sense and behave like a contestant on Supermarket Sweep.

On this one occasion, my competitive instinct will rise to the fore. I will race to be first in the queue, elbows out, then move at speed in a misplaced need to beat my fellow diners to all the “good stuff”.

This is ridiculous, because – newsflash – this is a buffet. We are talking about plates of curling, hard-to-identify cured meats, deep-bowl salads hiding problematic ingredients, such as raw onions and pumpkin seeds, dressings that appear benign until you realise, too late, that your entire plate is swimming in a lake of pungent blue-cheese slime. To compound the problem, buffet lighting is invariably poor; mistakes will be made.

I still shudder at the memory of attending a conference where I was keen to impress my fellow attenders. A group of us went up to the buffet together. When I returned to the table, the woman next to me glanced at my plate.

“What’s that?” she asked, gesturing at a lovely golden wedge of quiche perched on the edge of my pyramid of sausage rolls, garlic bread and beetroot slaw. “I didn’t notice that one.”

Feeling smug, I took a big bite and nearly choked. It wasn’t quiche – it was lemon tart. Too mortified to confess my error, I had to force it down between mouthfuls of vinegar-doused garlic bread.

“Anyone for dessert?” asked my table-mate. For the first and only time at a buffet, I was forced to utter the immortal words: “I’ve had quite enough to eat, thanks.”

•Anita Chaudhuri is a freelance journalist and photographer

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