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Breweries throw open doors to beer cicerone Brian Fitzgerald in pursuit of balance

Brewer Brian Fitzgerald uses other people's equipment to make his beer, whilst helping other brewers improve their product. (ABC Great Southern: Sophie Johnson)

You've probably heard of wine tasters and sommelier, but what about a beer cicerone?

Western Australia's Brian Fitzgerald can detect differences in the flavour ratios of hops, yeast and barley in a glass of beer by taste alone.

His remarkable palate resulted in recognition as Australia's first certified advanced beer cicerone in 2011.

The qualification is in the same league as a wine sommelier and requires the applicant to undergo several examinations to gain the title.

Mr Fitzgerald has become a gun-for-hire for brewers across Australia, helping them develop flavours and products in exchange for using their equipment to make his own beer.

"I do have a specialty, you could say, in the yeast side of things, so I'm always happy to give advice to brewers," the former WA Brewers Association president said.

Mr Fitzgerald is based at Denmark in the Great Southern region, is a certified beer judge, and has been brewing commercially for nearly 20 years.

Brian Fitzgerald passed a number of exams to become certified. (ABC Great Southern: Sophie Johnson)

Developing tasting expertise

He said understanding the different styles and flavours in beer was important to his craft and his certification.

"Often a big part of the cicerone program is understanding those styles, and to be able to help people and guide them through," Mr Fitzgerald said.

"I don't have a 100 per cent knowledge about beer, and I'm always welcome to new knowledge and information from brewers.

"There's new knowledge that is generated about hops and yeast and malt ingredients, how to use them, and also the technology that makes beer."

Mr Fitzgerald can identify ingredients in beer by taste and has a speciality in yeast. (ABC Great Southern: Sophie Johnson)

As soon as Mr Fitzgerald tastes a beer, he starts identifying the style and flavour profiles.

"The best beer is something that's balanced and clean and drinkable," he said.

"Balanced, meaning it has that right mouth feel, it's balanced on your palate.

"Clean, meaning it doesn't have any infections or faults to it, and drinkable means that when you enjoy it as the first sip, you'll enjoy the next one."

Helping brewers improve style

One brewery that he leases equipment from is Rocky Ridge in Busselton.

Head brewer Ross Terlick said Mr Fitzgerald's knowledge had improved his own production.

"From his knowledge of the styles, [he has] been able to point us in the right direction, even in dense things like fermentation temperature, water stock, water chemistry, different types of grain," he said.

Mr Terlick said it went to the "nitty gritty" of the brewery's target metrics for a beer to help them "really nail the style".

Rocky Ridge brewery has benefitted from Mr Fitzgerald's advice. (ABC Great Southern: Sophie Johnson)

He said Mr Fitzgerald was hugely respected, and working together in the brewing industry was fantastic for all involved.

"It's very beneficial for everyone, not just not just for us as companies, but also for the punters in that it's helping get more beer out to people with styles that generally people won't have a proper appreciation of," Mr Terlick said.

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