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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Tyler Zielinski

Bottoms up! The best bar openings of the year so far

Blink, and you miss a new opening. That’s the frightening pace at which bars and restaurants are debuting in London at the moment. Despite the cost of living crisis, 2023 has gone into fifth gear and there’s no stopping it. For bon vivants with the bandwidth to keep up, this year’s revived bar scene has been a breath of fresh air. But for thirsty nine-to-fivers who lack the required fluid social life, the laundry list of new bars to visit could well spill into 2024 at this rate. Of course, there are worse problems to have.

What’s most exciting is the diversity of new bar openings. London in 2023 has loosened its neck tie and unbuttoned a couple of shirt buttons with fresh live music venues and cocktail bars that aren’t afraid to be loud, proud and crowded. The speakeasies and restaurant bars are still flourishing, but so are some clubby cocktail lounges and outright nightclubs.

Are new openings — and reopenings, even — happening at a frantic rate? Maybe. But there are some proper gems in the tidal wave of new bars that have come onto the scene in 2023, so below is a list of the hottest spots of the year (so far) to keep your weeknight and weekend plans full to the brim.

Nipperkin

(Nipperkin via press)

The Standard’s first-look and recent four-star review of 20 Berkeley may have put Nipperkin, the restaurant’s subterranean cocktail den, on the London food-lovers’ radar, but this innovative 20-seat bar is more than 20 Berkeley’s side chick — it’s a bona fide bar destination in and of itself.

In line with the rest of 20 Berkeley’s myriad dining spaces, Nipperkin nails the quintessential English country manor house vibe. It’s not a bar in the traditional sense; rather the intimate spot feels as though it belongs in the basement of some well-to-do Mayfair dweller’s home with its bespoke island bar station made of wood, characterful sand-coloured tiled ceiling, cosy nooks and other warm design details. It seems like a bunker fit for afternoon tea, but instead guests are treated to one of the best cocktail lists that London has to offer, carefully curated under the attentive eyes, and expert palate, of bar manager Angelos Bafas.

Mirroring the restaurant’s ethos, Nipperkin’s drinks programme focuses heavily on British produce, seasonality and locality with all of the cocktails served in a minimalist fashion. There truly isn’t one lacklustre cocktail on the menu, but a couple of the current stars are the Black Mustard, a straight-up gimlet made with vodka, Dorset wasabi distillate, Capreolus apple eau de vie, ginger liqueur and black mustard leaves; and the Fig Leaf, a mind-boggling take on the piña colada that imitates the flavours typically found in the beloved tropical rum cocktail with British-sourced ingredients. The irony of the bar’s playful name is that the cocktails are so astonishingly delicious that it’s easier to leave having had a pint’s worth of cocktails than a nip(perkin). Whether that’s the responsible thing to do is neither here nor there, the cocktails are just so good that they beg for indulgence.

20 Berkeley Street, W1J 8EE, 20berkeley.com

Kwãnt

(Kwant via press)

Kwãnt isn’t just the hottest cocktail bar in London, it’s arguably one of 2023’s most anticipated (re-)openings globally. Within the first six months of opening at its original location on Heddon Street in 2019, the bar owned by award-winning bar industry veteran Erik Lorincz landed a number six spot on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. It was an unprecedented win that made the bar’s unfortunate pandemic-induced closure all the more heartbreaking; but it’s back — albeit stylishly late — and conveniently located around the corner from Green Park Station.

No detail was spared in Kwãnt 2.0’s tropical-chic interiors. There’s an entire wall designed with hand-painted Polynesian-style art, palm tree carpets and indoor palm trees, warmly-lit chess board tables, a ceiling fit with rattan cane webbing and a massive island bar station unlike any other. On the side of the bar where one of the skillful mixologists deftly mixes drinks there are two individual seats available on either side of the bar station. It’s an innovative seating design that gives guests a unique, immersive perspective that’s rarely available at bars — worth a visit for this feature alone. But it’s the exquisite cocktails, and Michelin-star calibre bites by pedigreed chef Joni Ketonen (ex-The Fat Duck, Jason Atherton and St John), that make Kwãnt the ultimate bar destination. Order the Gonzales (tequila, guava, makrut lime, 30/40 eau de vie and CO2)—maybe order two — then try the umami-laden, Old Fashioned-style Wallet cocktail, and eat all of the bar bites. And don’t worry about drinking your way through the menu the first time around; you’ll already be planning your next visit before the bill arrives.

52 Stratton Street, W1J 8LN, @kwantmayfair

Stereo

(Stereo Bar press handout)

Inspired by the vibrant late-night cultures of New York and London, Stereo, a venue with a 600 person capacity, is a hybrid of a restaurant, bar and nightclub. It’s the latter in the sense that Stereo offers a dynamic and eclectic music programme each night, with a rotating series of resident DJs and curated performances from an array of budding artists. But instead of the typical Red Bull-vodkas and gin and tonics served with two cubes of ice (three if you’re lucky) served at the average nightclub, guests are graced with expertly-crafted, crowd-pleasing cocktails such as the Midnight Rickey — a perfectly balanced mix of Stereo vodka, cucumber and verbena cordial, yuzu sake, lemon and soda water — and other creative drinks.

To eat, Stereo offers American–inspired bites designed by acclaimed chef Andrew Clarke of Acme Fire Cult. Larger dishes, such as the popular lobster and fish pie, are only available in the restaurant dining area, but the delicious hot wings, fried chicken sandwich and other bar bites can be enjoyed everywhere else, from the well-lit bar area in the heart of the venue, to the more sultry lounge tables. Is there a better night out in London at the moment? Considering guests can dance the night away while chowing down on some of the best Korean-style hot wings in London, perhaps not.

35 The Piazza, WC2E 8BE, stereocoventgarden.com

Equal Parts

(Anton Rodriguez)

Michael Sager, owner of beloved east London wine bar Sager + Wilde, has recently debuted his first all-day café and neighbourhood cocktail bar on Hackney Road. And given the successes of his previous ventures, it’s unsurprising that Equal Parts has become an instant sensation among locals and the city’s most enthused cocktail drinkers.

It’s one of those bars where space and time is seemingly fluid — the atmosphere so immersive that drinking through the selection of curated wines and aperitivi, Margaritas, or many rounds of the mouth-watering Martini-style Flor cocktail (olive oil vodka, fino sherry and tomato) feels like light work. Maybe it’s because of the perfectly balanced sound projected from the vinyl-spinning record player (loud enough to fill the space and avoid other tables overhearing your conversation, but soft enough to avoid yelling at the person next to you), or maybe it’s due to the subtly-designed, cosy interiors fit with a hodgepodge of textures, colours and materials, from the stately wooden back bar to the ashy synthetic bar top. But regardless of how Equal Parts conjures its magical ambiance, one thing is for certain: it’s a bar most Londoners will wish was in their neighbourhood. Coffee in the morning and equal parts Negronis at night? Sounds like a day well-spent.

245 Hackney Road, E2 8NA, equalpartslondon.com

Crossroads

(Crossroads via press)

Previously based in Camden, Crossroads moved to a new location on the quaint Newington Green in early 2023, and it’s a dream of a neighbourhood cocktail bar. It’s surprisingly massive with tons of natural light. There are three distinct sections, all of which are on different levels as you move further into the space — a unique setup, but one that offers a range of seating options that are perfect for cocktail-filled date nights, or larger party celebrations.

As for the bar bites and drinks, they’re up there with some of London’s finest. The food is executed by a seasoned chef who has earned their stripes in a range of Michelin-starred kitchens — be sure to have the hispi cabbage and Sazerac Sausage. The cocktails are sublime as well and inspired by food flavours. Try the Three Apples Stinger — better than taking a bite out of a fresh apple and balanced with three separate apple components. Contender for one of the best drinks in London at the moment? Absolutely.

47 Newington Green, N16 9PX, crossroads.bar

Mama Funki

(Mama Funki)

The sequel to Peckham’s favourite neighbourhood cocktail bar Funkidory ups the ante at its new Camberwell basement bar Mama Funki. Located beneath the buzzy Italian restaurant Forza Win, Mama Funki is everything you want in a cocktail bar: flawlessly executed classics, live music every Friday featuring a rotating roster of DJs, Italian hospitality and some experimental serves to lure London’s passionate imbibers.

The six-seat bar is where all of the mixological magic happens, but the sultry lounge-style seating is the way to kick-back, relax, vibe with the eclectic mix of old school hip-hop, soul and funk tunes, and drink through the curated cocktail list. The rum Old Fashioned-style Crocodile cocktail made with rum, Oloroso sherry, Capreolus chestnut barrel apple eau de vie and sage leaf is a moreish sipper fit for any boozehound; but it’s one of the many standouts found on the menu at this new, family-run South London watering hole.

29-33 Camberwell Church Street, SE5 8TR, mamafunki.com

Joia Bar

(Rebecca Hope)

Occupying floors 14 through 16 of the fashionable art’otel in the Battersea Power Station Development is Joia: restaurant, bar and rooftop bar. Restaurant-lovers will be familiar with the name as the restaurant was opened by Portuguese chef Henrique Sá Pessoa, who has two Michelin stars to his name at his restaurant Alma in Lisbon. But drinkers have realised that it’s Joia’s scenic rooftop bar which is the spot to see and be seen.

The sights? Unrivalled views of the power station and flocks of influencers keen to capitalise on one of London’s few content-worthy rooftop bars. The menu features some of chef Pessoa’s small plates, including staples such as pan con tomate and Iberico ham croquetas, but it’s the wine selection and cocktails that keep the party going. Tis slushy season, so dive into a frozen Strawberry Margarita; otherwise the Paloma-esque Safira Rosa (mezcal, elderflower, grapefruit soda and rose petal water) is the cocktail to be guzzled.

A couple floors down, the sheltered and seductive Joia Bar offers a more sophisticated range of cocktails: think Iberian-inspired twists on classics, such as the Martini-style Trilogia made with vodka, dry sherry, seaweed water and olive oil caviar. With live music every Friday and Saturday, it serves as a vibey alternative to the rooftop should you fancy something indoors instead.

15th Floor, 1 Electric Blvd, Nine Elms, SW11 8BJ, joiabattersea.co.uk

Vesper Bar

(Vesper bar press handout)

For just over 90 years, The Dorchester has been an opulent playground for the world’s rich and famous. As one of the city’s iconic five-star hotels, it has hosted a laundry list of noteworthy individuals, from royals to A-listers. So, when contemplating the creative concept of the five-star hotel’s reinvigorated destination bar, The Dorchester found inspiration in the works of one of its most influential guests, Ian Fleming’s James Bond.

The Vesper Bar, a reference to Vesper Lynd, a central character and love interest of 007 in the novel Casino Royale, for whom the Vesper Martini was named, is everything you’d expect it to be: thirties-style interiors highlighted by a low-set palladium leaf ceiling, an abundance of mirrors to reflect the glitzy decor and warmly-lit space, stylishly cosy armchairs and plush carpets.

The cocktail to order, of course, is the bar’s signature take on the Vesper Martini made with Elit vodka, Old Tom gin, redistilled Forbidden Fruit liqueur, Del Duque 30 Years and a bespoke Vesper aroma dispensed from an atomiser. With said Martini in-hand, while sunken into one of the well-cushioned arm chairs, your chin lifts a touch higher, diction becomes a bit sharper and etiquette practised like it’s not your first five-star rodeo. Order some soakage in the form of the lamb Wellington as you navigate your way through the pricey but well-executed cocktail list. It may be a special occasion destination for most, but after being whisked away by the bar’s charm and exquisite service, it’ll feel well-worth the visit.

The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA, dorchestercollection.com

Papi

(Press handout)

When Hackney-based Papi opened in March 2023, it made a lot of noise in the restaurant industry. Probably because the boisterous duo of low-waste-minded head chef Matthew Scott (one of the founders of the Hot 4 You pop-up) and his partner in crime Charlie Carr of Wingnut Wines are notorious for pushing culinary boundaries and having a damn good time as they do it, as the Standard’s own David Ellis found out first-hand when he interviewed them in January.

While Scott’s voguish food and cooking focused on regeneratively reared meat and sustainable seafood across snacks, small plates and large sharing dishes commands most of the attention, Papi’s drinks has also piqued the interest of oenophiles and cocktail lovers alike. Carr’s done an exceptional job at curating an interesting array of wines suitable for any type of drinker, and the cocktails are unsurprisingly cheeky — Ribena Negroni, anyone? — but each of them hit the mark. It’s one of Hackney’s trendiest places to be at the moment, and after a bottle of wine and some of Papi’s simple, ever-changing small plates served with genuine hospitality, it’s easy to see why.

1F, 373 Mentmore Terrace, E8 3DQ, @papi.restaurant

Spey Bar

Spey Bar, found upstairs at the newly refurbished Browns Covent Garden, is a sophisticated whisky and cocktail bar from the renowned Speyside Craigellachie Hotel. The bar, which features more than 100 different whiskies, is a comprehensive celebration of Highland hospitality, local produce and fine spirits and cocktails — a fine slice of Scottish excellence, really.

Plush interiors, including an array of upholstered armchairs and couches, yield a vibe that’s best described as elegant manor study meets members club. Distinctive whisky pairings with herbs, botanicals and other ingredients are presented tableside for proper whisky lovers and the simple signature cocktail list is designed to not fluster any whisky purists who can’t fathom their revered brown liquid being mixed with anything other than a drop of water. The Stratton, a milk punch-style drink is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser, and a classic whisky highball makes a strong case in this chic space, but Spey Bar is a magnet for imbibers keen to taste their way through the expansive whisky list and that’s one of the most common ways guests will be navigating the menu.

Browns Covent Garden, 82-84 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AG, speycoventgarden.co.uk

Gothic Bar

(Hugo-Toro)

Gothic Bar, the extravagantly-designed destination bar which has just launched in King’s Cross as part of the critically acclaimed opening of The Midland Grand Dining Room, is nothing short of spectacular. Taking its name after the building’s Gothic Revival style, and brought to life by the panache of French architect Hugo Toro, Gothic Bar makes its case for the most visually-appealing new opening of 2023.

The cocktail programme has been created by Jack Porter, who was behind the drinks at St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel’s Booking Office 1869, Mezzanine at The Stratford and Library Bar at The Ned. Highlights of the cocktail menu include the Eau de Martini, crafted with either gin or vodka, The Grand vermouth blend and a choice of eau de vie per the preference of the guest. The rest of the list is filled with approachable flavours and drink styles to appease a range of imbibers. The bar is filled with bustling travellers waiting for their trains at the adjacent St. Pancras train station but it’s rapidly lured in cocktail lovers from around the city. If popping in pre-train departure, do be warned: a couple Martinis have a magical effect to distort time and that train may leave the station without your knowing. But, in all honesty, there are worse places to be stuck than this exquisite cocktail bar.

St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, NW1 2AR, midlandgranddiningroom.com/gothic-bar

Octo

(Amazonico press handout)

Amazónico, the late-night Latin American restaurant in Berkeley Square, opened Octo in June. Unsurprisingly, given the unabashed extravagance of the restaurant, this underground cocktail-filled paradise is as pretty as it is vibey.

To enter the bar, a host guides guests through Amazónico itself. Past the restaurant’s kitchen there’s a door; and behind it is a golden-clad staircase that descends into Octo. Inspired by the South American cenotes that lie beneath the Amazon River, the spot is immersive in its distinct nautical and rainforest-influenced design, vibrant drinks and atmosphere elevated by the electro-tropical tracks played by one of the rotating resident DJs. The familiar Palomito, the bar’s take on the classic Paloma cocktail with a touch of spice and bitterness, is a mouth-watering crowd-pleaser, but the list is filled with enticing liquid masterpieces crafted by the well-adept mixologists. Is it London’s most lavish speakeasy? The jury is still out on that one, but it’s not out of the question.

10 Berkeley Square, W1J 6BR, amazonicorestaurant.com

Dover Yard at 1 Hotel Mayfair

(Jon Day)

Fresh-faced Dover Yard at the fashionable 1 Hotel Mayfair only opened its doors this month, but the cocktail curious have been eagerly awaiting the bar like insatiable sharks. Led by director of bars, Matteo Carretta (previously of Claridges), the drinks menu at Dover Yard presents guests with a selection of intricate twists on classic cocktails. Breaking Grounds,  Carretta’s umami-laden take on an Espresso Martini, marries treacle-infused cognac with the usual suspects for a moreish fit for a hotel bar of its calibre. At the heart of the menu is its low-waste, upcycling-driven ethos. Many cocktails utilise repurposed ingredients from Tom Sellers’ Dovetale — the bar’s neighbouring kitchen — which can be found on the Repurposed Ingredients section of the menu. Given its address, it’s as quintessentially British as one might envision it to be, but Dover Yard’s design departs from the typical plush carpets and subtle glitziness in favour of eco-luxury: earthen textures and interiors with a contemporary fireplace to illuminate and warm the space during London’s many cooler months. As the autumn quickly approaches, this bar will only be getting hotter (literally and figuratively).

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