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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Josh Barrie and David Ellis

London’s best restaurants for a night of utter indulgence

A dose of delirium: Noble Rot

(Picture: Noble Rot)

New Year resolutions — what in any other month would just be called “good intentions” — are too often equally admirable and anaemic. Self-improvement is all very well, but does it have to be such a slog?

Beginning again, going for runs, eating a little better and taking it easy on the drink should be saved for the haze and heat of summer, when it’s easy to head out into the blissful breeze and stick to white fish in drizzles of oil. January — especially this one, with its seemingly endless run of frostbitten mornings and gnashing nights — is for curling up by pub fires, for midweek wine, for taking refuge in restaurants that specialise in comfort.

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