Food as theatre. Chef as entrepreneur. The restaurant, a performance. None made it more dramatic, or eclectic, than Paul Bocuse, creator, innovator, artist of what was dubbed by a journalist duo ‘nouvelle cuisine’, a cultural revolution of food in 1960s-70s France, a remove from haute cuisine’s opulent fare. In The Secret History of French Cooking , Luke Barr traces not just the well known history of modern food, but its hidden half – the parts that perhaps click in place only with hindsight.
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