Black Salt, London: ‘A thrilling take on familiar dishes’ – restaurant review

‘I doubt that the team behind it stopped to wonder whether this was the right place for their elevated take on the Indian repertoire’: Black Salt, Sheen. Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observer

Black Salt, 505-507 Upper Richmond Road West, London SW14 7DE (020 4548 3327). Starters and tandoori grills £6.50-£15.50, mains £11.90-£14.90, desserts £4.50-£5.90, Cobra (large) £6.50, wines from £22

We often talk about the British high street as if it were one homogenous retail experience. In truth it is many places, not all of them utterly delightful. In London it can mean the increasingly tawdry Oxford Street, where legacy brands desperately fighting the rising tide of online shopping sit alongside a bizarre number of joints apparently selling shelves of weird fizzy and sour sweets that nobody seems to want to buy. It has been suggested that some of the latter are fronts for laundering cash and various sorts of dodginess. Though obviously that’s not what’s going on, heavens no.