Once upon a time, a new Gucci campaign would have been a glossy, perfectly lit, sexy affair. But times, they are more mundane now. The Italian super brand’s latest offering from newly incumbent creative director Sabato De Sarno stars a slightly bored looking Billie Eilish, photographed on the floor by some exposed plugs, blowing bubble gum on a marked carpet; in the back of a car, largely makeup free, staring away from the camera.
It’s the latest in a series of internet breaking viral stars whom De Sarno has artfully disheveled to semaphore his new Gucci world; Kendall Jenner and Bad Bunny flirted around an airport, pushing their own luggage trolley; Paul Mescal was shot hairy-legs akimbo, all trench coat and no trousers. It’s luxury, but make it low key.
It fits the burgeoning vein of the Gen Z obsession with the much touted idea of authenticity, ditching filters and tired-perfectionism, photographing their shoes at weird angles, posting blurry pictures from nights out on their social channels, filming mashed together processed food and calling it a TikTok recipe.
There is more here for this earnest, hyper-aware cohort. Eilish (who has been vegan since she was 12) totes a new non-leather version of the classic Horsebit 1955 bag, created using Demetra, an animal-free material developed exclusively by Gucci.
Unveiled in 2021 and used for some of its trainer offerings, this is the first bag to include the fabric (on the trim and handle) which consists of “75% plant-based raw materials” which includes a mix of viscose, (traceable and responsibly sourced) wood pulp and bio-based polyurethane. Demetra is produced in Gucci’s own factory in Italy, and exposed to the same tanning process as its leather goods. The body of the bag is made from hemp and Econyl, a regenerated nylon formed from plastic ocean waste; the chunky horsebit hardware is a recycled metal.
In sync with launching its new campaign, Gucci has made a “significant donation” to Support+Feed, a plant-based food poverty non-profit helmed by Maggie Baird, Eilish’s mother.
So-called vegan leather (a term banned in Portugal last year for being misleading to consumers) is a burgeoning fashion category, adopted for its presumed eco- credentials as much as its affordability against the real thing. Kylie Jenner’s new brand Khy (thrillingly on sale from today) is created entirely from imitation leather, which has enabled her to keep her prices relatively affordable - the most expensive item, a black trench coat, is £215.
Stella McCartney has famously never used animal leather in any of her collections from the brand’s inception; but with repeated attacks from Peta at the recent round of fashion shows, the use of leather in fashion is under some debate, and with rising veganism, brands are keen to offer their customers an alternative.
Gucci’s newest step into this category, with its slightly wonky, asymmetric shaped Horsebit bag, can be yours for £2, 470.
Available at Gucci.com
