The Eighties revival, long evident in fashion with the resurgence of peplum tops and shoulder pads, has now firmly taken hold in the realm of hair. Big, bouncy, full-bodied styles are making a significant comeback, championed by figures such as Sabrina Carpenter, Doja Cat, and Simone Ashley.
However, this contemporary wave of volume is a distinct departure from the rigid perms and helmet-hard hairspray of its predecessor.
"Big hair is back, but it’s had a very modern makeover. The key difference now is softness," explains celebrity hairstylist Jason Collier, founder of Studio23.
"You want lift and fullness, but with movement and ‘touchability’, not rigid structure […] your hair should look as though it can move." In essence, today’s interpretation of Eighties hair prioritises lightness and natural flow over heavy lacquer.
Achieving this voluminous look begins not with styling products, but in the hairdresser’s chair. Collier stresses that the correct cut can create the illusion of fullness before any tools are even picked up.
"Ask for long, feathered layers that are placed properly through the crown and around the face to encourage lift," he advises. "You don’t want heavy, blunt lines because they drag volume down. A really good stylist will create shape that builds body without thinning the hair too much, so it still feels healthy and full."
For those with curly hair, the same principle applies, though precision becomes even more critical. Nicola Harrowell, a curly hair expert and Curlsmith ambassador, states: "When it comes to curls, the cut is everything.
Ask your hairdresser for layers that are designed specifically for curly hair […] you want rounded layers that allow curls to spring up and out, not heavy lengths that pull them down." The goal for this look is not to force curls into submission. "Big hair doesn’t need to be teased or overly styled to look impactful," Harrowell adds, noting that the modern aesthetic is softer and far more natural than its Eighties ancestor.
What truly distinguishes today’s voluminous hair from retro throwbacks is its texture. Collier warns against the common mistake of overloading hair with heavy creams and traditional stiff sprays.
"Good-looking volume comes from products that support the hair, not coat it," he says. "Root sprays, light mousses and fine texture mists are perfect because they give lift and grip without stiffness. What you want to avoid are heavy waxes, thick creams or old-school hairsprays while styling, because they make hair look crunchy and flat very quickly."
For those with natural movement, even greater care is needed, but Harrowell reiterates that support, not stiffness, should guide product choices. "A lightweight mousse is ideal because it gives curls lift and hold while keeping them soft and bouncy […] Volume should feel airy, not coated."
She also suggests diluting gels with plenty of water for a "juicy texture that isn’t too crunchy."
When it comes to blow-drying for maximum volume, a universal professional trick is directional drying. "Drying the roots in the opposite direction to how the hair naturally falls instantly creates lift," Collier explains, adding that "even flipping your head upside down for the first few minutes makes a big difference."
Large rollers, though seemingly retro, remain a stylist’s secret for achieving shape without stiffness when left in while the hair cools.
"When styling long layers, I’d always recommend using a large round brush to inject extra volume and shape the layers," says Sophie Chandler, a stylist from RUSH Hair. "Blow dry the hair back and forth away from the root, lifting the hair to achieve a texturised, voluminous finish!" Curly hair, conversely, benefits most from gentle diffusing.
"Diffusing is your best friend for curly volume," Harrowell advises. "Always dry curls with your head tilted or upside down to encourage lift at the roots, and use low heat with low airflow so you don’t disturb the curl pattern." A root-lifting product applied beforehand can help maintain volume throughout the day.
Ultimately, every stylist underscores one crucial theme: health equals volume. Chandler warns that heat styling without adequate protection "strips the hair of its natural moisture, while severely weakening the structure of your hair."
Her non-negotiable advice is to use heat protectant every single time. Unhealthy hair can significantly compromise the desired look. "Healthy hair always looks fuller, so protection is non-negotiable," Collier states.
"Don’t overdo it day after day." For curls, hydration is paramount. Harrowell notes that balanced moisture leads to fuller, shinier, and more defined curls, even with minimal styling effort.
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