Standing outside the Gunung Kai Sebatu Temple, on the outskirts of Ubud, I’m struck by the beauty of its towering stone walls and lush, forest-green foliage. Hawkers hover behind me, offering up patterned pareos and their hand-woven wares, the rising heat of midday pricking at my skin. I quickly learn that I’ll be unable to immerse myself in the purifying turquoise pools that shimmer inside though: tradition states that women who are menstruating (or breastfeeding) aren’t allowed within the inner sanctum of Bali’s sacred shrines. It’s a disappointing curveball.
