The Road That Doesn't Rush You
The first thing Chikmagalur takes from you is your itinerary. You arrive with a list, Mullayanagiri, Baba Budangiri, the coffee museum, and within a day the list is somewhere in your bag, unread. The hills do this. They are not dramatic in the way that Coorg's mists are dramatic, not cinematic. They are quieter, more insistent. The estates here sit at elevations where the air has a weight to it, and walking through a coffee plantation in the early morning, when the dew is still on the arabica leaves, you understand that this kind of place does not reward hurry.