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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Tania Leslau

Best sustainable underwear brands to lace your lingerie drawer

There are two types of people in life: those who live in their most comfortable age-old granny panties and those who sashay into a slinky matching lace set day in, day out.

Whatever your preferred style of underwear, they’re some of the hardest-working pieces in our wardrobes. So why don’t we pay more attention to quality or sustainability credentials?

Unless you live life on the edge and enjoy going commando, the majority of us wear underwear every day without fail. This means the wear and tear they endure is greater than that of a sequined cocktail dress or a prized cashmere knit.

When it comes to upgrading our undies, most of us either stick to the same place we’ve shopping in for years or dash off to the nearest high-street store. It’s undoubtedly the speediest way to shop and typically the cheapest. But is it the best?

The New Standard Institute estimates 150 billion new garments are made every year, with the revenue of the underwear market worldwide in the UK totalling 3.4 billion US dollars (£2.7 billion) in 2022 according to Statista. The underwear market revenue in the US amounted to approximately $17.8 billion (£14.1 billion), a staggering figure for such tiny swathes of material. 

The production of underwear is a gargantuan system, impacting the entire ecosystem and contributing to the global climate crisis. Plastic microfibers from these synthetic garments can enter our waterways when washed, which can trickle into the ocean and contaminate the food chain. Yet, this can be so easily avoided.

According to Ocean Wise: "Through laundry, microfibres make their way into the aquatic ecosystems. They've been found in plankton, seafood, in the stomachs of marine mammals, and at depths of up to 1,000 meters."  Microfibres are primarily found in polyesters and polyamides. So, if these fabrics are listed in the materials of the underwear, they will almost definitely release plastic-based fibres.

Sustainable underwear brands champion a kinder approach to consumerism, emphasising regenerative, responsible materials and transparent, local production chains. Certified fabrics such as TENCEL Lyocell, responsible wool, bamboo and organic cotton are valuable alternatives to synthetic polyester blends favoured by fast fashion brands.

As with all items of clothing, the most sustainable items are the ones that already exist in our wardrobes. The first step is to ensure they last longer.

Orsola De Castro, author and co-founder of Fashion Revolution, helps to unpick this panty pickle. I tend to either wash [underwear] with me when I have a shower or in the machine in a wash bag with as little heat as possible. A good delicate wash will do for fancy underwear.”

De Castro also imparts some advice as to how to keep underwear in circulation: “I used thongs to make rosettes, with which I decorated an upcycled wedding gown that was on show at the MoMA in Seoul many years ago. I often work with young designers who find antique underwear and they re-elaborate it into beautiful couture pieces.”

Edgar Degas - Woman standing from the front, clasping her corset, c.1883 (Fine Art America)

But where do you shop when underwear is really needed? Sustainable brands. Helpfully there’s a swathe of independent labels placing sustainability as a core concern with cutting-edge and technical designs.

Take, for example, Subset which offers recycling services, cleverly turning your old pants into insulation, carpet padding and furniture batting.

Discover the best sustainable underwear brands to shop in 2024 and revamp your lingerie drawer with consideration and care.

Shop now

Stripe & Stare

A favourite among Gen Z influencers who focus on sustainable fashion, Stripe and Stare offers comfort-forward pieces to liven up your undies drawer. The London-based, female-founded company incorporates the use of TENCEL Micro Modal, a sustainably made material sourced from Beechwood Trees in Austria. According to the brand, the fabric is scientifically proven to be three times softer than cotton and is hyper-breathable.

The sustainable production is complemented by biodegradable materials, adding to the colourful charm of the brand. Worn your Stripe and Stare pants to death? Pop them in the compost bin and let Mother Earth do the rest.

Buy now, Stripe & Stare

Fruity Booty

All the It-girls are wearing Fruity Booty, and for a number of reasons. Not only are the brand’s girlish glamorous designs the ideal blend of sultry and sweet, but they are also eco-friendly. The majority of the brand’s pieces are crafted from surplus fabrics, and for the pants that aren’t, Fruity Booty sourced sustainable, high-quality materials for their creation. The packaging is 100 per cent recycled and the brand employs a zero-plastic policy when making the pretty pants.

Always wash your Fruity pieces separately from the rest of your washing, and ideally, wash them alone for their first wash using a bag for your intimates. Wash in cold water (no warmer than 20 degrees) to help reduce the risks of colour fading, and unnecessary energy use.

Buy now, Fruity Booty

Baserange

From zesty leopard prints to stealthy tiger stripes, lemon drop yellow and more, Baserange offers an eclectic host of dreamy designs. Founded in 2012, the label has always emphasised clean lines and everyday silhouettes, with every piece crafted from natural, recycled materials. Reduced energy use, water consumption and dye usage are very much part of the brand’s MO, making the collection kind for the planet and kind for your skin.

Buy now, Baserange

Subset

You may know Subset by its former name ‘Knickey.’ The brand rebranded in 2023 following its 2018 foundation. Unsurprisingly, no pesticides of PFA-ridden fabrics can be found in the label’s easy-wear collection, which is crafted from comfortable, certified organic cotton with a velvety soft touch. The material comes doctor-approved due to its lightweight breathability that adapts to sensitive skin.

Behind the scenes, the brand has partnered with manufacturers who rely on third-party certifications to verify the brand’s sustainability claims. Subset even takes a step towards climate positivity, providing jobs for locals in India who help source the cotton and craft the clothing under healthy, certifiable working conditions.

One factor that sets the brand apart from the rest is its partnering with SuperCircle. To avoid your undergarments clogging up landfills, Subset will take your worn intimates and turn them into new materials like insulation, carpet padding and furniture batting.

Buy now, Subset

Organic Basics

Organic Basis is making sustainable choices easy. The Copenhagen-based brand designs are considered basics using recycled, recyclable, plant-based, and organic materials. The company keenly follows an ethical mode of production and solely collaborates with certifiable factories that align with the values of the founders.

Not only that but Organic Basics also offsets carbon emissions and has teamed up with Beam Impact, meaning that with every purchase you make, the brand donates 1 per cent of your order value to a charity of your choice.

Buy now, Organic Basics

BOUJO HAKE

‘Parisian tomboy cool’ is BOUJO HAKE’s mood board. Adopting a minimalist style that prioritises female comfort, the brand works closely with its factories and uses natural materials spanning GOTS-certified and recycled cashmere. Unlike polluting synthetic fabrics, these materials can biodegrade, making for a happier, healthier planet rid of waste.

We really mean it when we say BOUJO HAKE has every corner covered. The fastening and hooks are nickel-free, the cotton is grown without chemical pesticides, the packaging is recyclable and all features are sourced in Europe to reduce the brand’s carbon footprint.

Buy now, BOUJO HAKE

Underprotection

Underprotection’s romantic collection is a sight to behold. Delicate honey-yellow lace, chocolate tones and blue florals sprawl across the brand’s whimsical pieces. Perfect for special occasions, the pieces are to be handled with care and cherished over time.

The majority of the B-Corp-certified brand’s natural materials are TENCEL Lyocell, responsible wool and organic cotton. Many of the products are Oeko-Tex certified, which ensures no pesky chemicals feature in the production process and have GRS certification. The latter ensures the garment is legitimately recycled, helping to maintain a transparent production system.

Like other brands, Underprotection solely works with vetted manufacturers and factories that employ workers with proper working conditions and living wages.

Buy now, Underprotection

Pico

Trace your pants right back to the source. Pico’s underwear consists of super-soft pieces to gently caress the body. Enjoy a guilt-free browse knowing the brand works directly with a small, living-wage paying factory in Southern India that uses organic cotton sourced from farmer’s cooperatives - in turn employing the community.

The silky-soft touch of the undergarments won't upset sensitive skin, thanks to the natural Oeko-Tex & GOTS certified dyes which hail from zero waste units.

Buy now, Pico

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