The group of ingredients known as retinoids - all derived from vitamin A - has long been the gold standard when it comes to clinically proven anti-ageing benefits.
Originally prescribed by dermatologists to treat acne, the discovery that it could also soften lines and even out skin tone made the beauty industry take note, beginning in the 80s with creams, oils and serums aimed at women who wanted to retain or regain a youthful complexion.
What is retinol?
It’s a complex ingredient, worthy of several head-spinning science lessons. But put most simply, vitamin A comes in different strengths, from prescription-only retinoic acid to retinol esters like retinyl palmitate.
Pictured as a family tree, retinyl palmitate, at three generations removed from the original, is a weaker but still active version. Each form needs to be converted to retinoic acid naturally at a cellular level in the skin to work effectively – the more conversations away, the more gentle the results but also the less chance of irritation. The most popular of these is retinol (which takes two conversions) with good reason.
What does retinol do?
It’s a skin-boosting workhorse that can transform texture, tone and firmness quite quickly, while today’s refined formulas reduce the chance of redness or peeling common with previous offerings.
“Retinol stimulates activity in the cells within the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin,” explains Dr Bob Khanna, a leader in facial aesthetics known as ‘the doctor’s doctor,’ who works from his eponymous clinic in Reading. “This encourages cell production, strengthens the protective properties of the epidermis, reduces moisture loss and safeguards collagen from deterioration.”
That means fine lines and wrinkles are smoother, pores look less visible, uneven skin tone and dark spots are fainter, plus breakouts are reduced. Overall, think a brighter, fresher, firmer complexion.
Who should use retinol?
It’s also a universal ingredient. “Retinol suits a wide age range and all skin tones, from fair to dark,” adds Dr Khanna. “For acne purposes, it can be used from a young age; for anti-ageing or preventative reasons, start around age 25, especially if you have a particularly rough complexion. The only skin types I wouldn’t recommend retinol for are really dry or overly sensitive, as it can be more aggravating.”
How do you incorporate retinol into your skincare routine?
Remember too that using retinol is not a sprint: a slow and steady approach is needed to get the most from its multi-tasking powers without falling foul of the potential downsides. “In general, it takes three months of consistent application to really see results,” says Dr Khanna. “It is important to build up tolerance, as overuse can cause side effects such as irritation, redness, dryness or peeling. So begin by only using it once or twice a week. Lower concentrations of 0.3 per cent or 0.5 per cent retinol are also ideal to start with. You should start to see and feel results around 6-8 weeks, then you’ll notice the full benefits at 10-12 weeks.”
What products should you use in conjunction with retinol?
Diligence elsewhere in your routine is essential too. Dr Khanna recommends using moisturiser after a retinol oil or serum to, “lock it in and help protect the skin’s natural barrier.”
Even more crucially, as retinol speeds up the production of fresh new skin cells to replace the old damaged ones, skin can be more sensitive and needs protection from being damaged by the sun’s UV rays. So using an SPF30 or above daily – even when it’s cloudy – is non-negotiable. There’s no point investing time and money in these fantastic retinol products if you’re going to undo the benefits when you step out the front door…
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Dr David Jack Good Night Advanced Active Night Cream
Putting his ‘less, but better’ approach towards aesthetics treatments into a skincare collection of just three essentials, each of Dr Jack’s products tackles multiple needs in one pump, at exactly the right time of day.
His Good Night retinoid cream contains a potent line-fighting version of vitamin A that’s a step up from retinol but is paired with anti-inflammatory, anti-redness champion, niacinamide.
Gentle exfoliating acids also help improve brightness and texture, while hyaluronic acid bumps up moisture levels so skin looks fresh and bouncy by morning. All this in a creamy lotion that glides on, absorbs quickly and leaves a tactile satin finish.
Buy now £120.00, Dr David Jack
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6
A favourite amongst beauty editors and aesthetic doctors when it’s time to make an intensive leap forward from entry-level retinoids. Crystal Retinal 6 is the mid-point of Medik8’s five-strong collection that ranges in strength from gentle to ultra.
With a satin texture and apricot tint, this light cream features time-released retinaldehyde, meaning it’s as gentle on the skin as retinol but packs a similar punch to prescription-strength retinoic acid. It’s antibacterial too, so ideal for tackling breakouts.
Absorbing quickly with a slightly cooling feel, it is said to deliver results eleven times faster than classic forms of retinal, so phase it into your routine gently.
Buy now £69.00, Medik8
Zelens Power A Concentrate
One of a range of concentrates focused on the payoff from individual vitamins, Power A is the re-texturising and renewing hero of the line-up.
Combining three strengths of retinoids into an encapsulated formula that’s slowly released overnight, it gently but constantly delivers benefits, from softening wrinkles to lightening pigmentation, while you sleep. You’ll also reap rewards from vegetable extracts such as carrot and pumpkin which are also rich in vitamin A to assist with extra smoothing. Best tapped into the skin using fingertips, a little of this rich oil goes a long way but won’t make your face feel greasy or tacky.
Buy now £105.00, John Lewis
Mara Algae Retinol Face Oil
With 1.5 per cent retinol from a blend of two vitamin A sources, this oil effectively combats a host of unwelcome imperfections, from dark spots and fine lines, to enlarged pores and blemish scars.
It also includes fermented green tea extract, rich in protective antioxidants and nourishing fatty acids, plus hemp-derived cannabis oil, used to plump and hydrate skin.
Teamed with brown algae that supports the skin’s natural ability to defend itself from external aggressors such as pollution and encourages new collagen and elastin, the result is a powerhouse of ingredients that tackle skin ageing from multiple angles and keep it feeling supple and luminous – no extra night cream required.
Buy now £105.00, Content Beauty
Olay Retinol24 Max Night Cream
With a deliciously rich texture that melts easily into skin, this is Olay’s upgrade on their retinol original, the top-selling night cream in the UK.
Where the original collection was ideal for first-time users and those with oilier complexions, Retinol24 MAX has increased both the amount of retinoids and packed it with 40 per cent more moisturising ingredients. That means it works faster and harder for those with skin that already tolerates forms of Vitamin A, claiming to penetrate up to ten layers of the skin’s surface. It also offsets any potential dryness for 24 hours.
This product is better suited to those with complexions that need an extra flood of comforting hydration.
Buy now £44.00, Boots
OSKIA Retinol Sleep Level 2
For seasoned retinol users who want to step the anti-ageing benefits up a notch, OSKIA’s Level 2 serum is formulated to slot into your existing routine and sit comfortably under night oil or cream, two to three times a week.
A wonderful balance of beautifully light texture and powerfully effective ingredients, it contains 0.5 per cent retinoate - a slightly more potent form of vitamin A than retinol - teamed with vitamin C and turmeric, which both boost luminosity and tone.
Keeping the skin’s natural health supported is also key, so protective antioxidants and an active that’s essential for synthesising vitamin D within the skin are welcome additions.
Buy now £75.00, Flannels
Bloomeffects Black Tulip Overnight Retinoid Serum
This newly launched range from the Netherlands has been created around the unique regenerative powers of tulips, the only flowers that continue to grow after being cut.
A fantastic all-rounder, the serum is packed with proven anti-ageing ingredients at beneficial levels to improve tone, texture and firmness. The two stars of the show are powerful two per cent granactive retinoid (one conversion down) which has been shown in studies to reduce wrinkles and age spots in under a month, while their Black Tulip Complex taps into the flower’s reparative properties for smoothing, hydrating and tightening results.
The deep purple serum smoothes on easily and absorbs fast for a matt finish, so you’ll want to apply moisturiser on top to hydrate and seal in the active ingredients as they get to work.
Buy now £119.00, Harrods
Revision Skincare Retinol Complete 0.5
A standout product from this professional cosmeceutical range, Retinol Complete is another perfect pairing of the vitamin A derivative at 0.5 per cent and plant-based alternative bakuchiol.
These two work in synergy to get a greater anti-ageing result while bakuchiol also brings with it skin-shielding antioxidant properties. The light, lemony-coloured serum leaves a velvet-soft feel and as the retinol is time-released, it ensures line-fighting and brightening benefits accumulate overnight rather than flooding skin with potentially irritating actives. Hydrating botanicals ward off dryness and flaking too for a soft, supple result.
Buy now £72.16, On Buy
Bliss Youth Got This Prevent-4 + Pure Retinol Advanced Skin Smoothing Serum
This silky, instantly-absorbed serum uses a small, stabilized form of retinol alongside their Prevent-4 Complex of protective and fortifying peptides, amino acids, antioxidants and squalane, ensuring it’s gentle enough to use in the morning too (with the caveat that sunscreen is essential – we can’t say it enough!).
As peptides stimulate collagen just like retinol, they make a great double act, while squalane and amino acids both build up the skin’s own environmental shield. Clinical studies say it reduces the look of fine lines in four weeks and fans report that just a few nights are enough to make the complexion look more luminous.
Buy now £14.95, Amazon
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream
This is a retinol with cult following and there’s good reason for that. The hyped range lives up to its name with a product that packs a punch containing a winning combination of retinol at a one per cent concentration.
Combined with nourishing passionfruit, apricot, kale and winter cherry extracts – which are packed with antioxidants, and moisturising properties and will protect against environmental stressors. The product also contains peptides that work in tandem with the retinol to offer added elasticity through a boost in collagen production.
While it is an effective product for minimising the appearance of fine lines and dark spots as well as revitalising your skin, it has a potent formulation that can irritate and lead to peeling if you over apply or apply too often.
You should use a pea-sized amount on clean, dry skin and begin the treatment but use it twice a week, working up to every other night and then every night for the seasoned retinol users.
As with the entire Drunk Elephant range, the product is free from drying alcohols, silicones, chemical screens, fragrances or dyes and SLS.
Buy now £26.00, Cult Beauty
Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum
For this retinol night serum, retinol combined with ceramides that work to reduce signs of ageing and boost moisture respectively – particularly handy as retinol is known to dry out your skin. The single-dose capsules are sealed in an opaque casing that ensures they are more potent than unencapsulated formulas (76 per cent more according to the brand). They are also fully biodegradable and hand luggage-friendly.
To use, twist and squeeze the capsule into your hand and apply the serum all over your face and neck. You will start to notice the results in only one month where your skin will appear brighter, more even and a noticeable reduction in visibility of dark spots or discolouration.
Buy now £51.00, Elizabeth Arden
Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum
This is a concentrated formula with one of the highest, bioavailable forms of Vitamin A that you can buy over the counter – and yet, somehow is able to reduce some of the more unwanted side effects like flaking, redness and irritation better than its contemporaries. It uses 6.5 per cent stabilised retinoid and retinoid-like botanical extracts to transform your complexion — and transform it does.
For instance, this particular formula: high retinol, high reward. This serum also works effectively to fight blemishes, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and reverse UV damage.
Use as a serum applied after you have cleansed and toned. Apply one or two pumps as part of your evening skincare regime. This is an excellent product and worthy of a prized place in any skincare routine.
Buy now £100.00, Space NK
Kate Somerville +Retinol Vitamin C Power Serum
Kate Somerville has teamed retinol with another powerhouse ingredient, Vitamin C, to create a super serum that utilises retinol to boost the skin’s firmness and reduce the signs of ageing and Vit-C to leave your complexion brighter and more even. Together this duet of ingredients will leave you with glowing, youthful-looking skin in only a few uses. It’s strong but it works.
This is a very lightweight formula that absorbs quickly and is especially useful for anyone battling hyperpigmentation.
Apply to your face and neck, avoiding the eye area and follow with hydrating moisturiser. Use sun cream and don’t combine it with any other retinol products.
Buy now £94.00, Space NK
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment
Dr. Dennis Gross is renowned for products that perform, and this one is no different. Sensitive skin should give this silky serum a try due to its added Ferulic acid, which soothes and ensures the product’s retinol is gently absorbed.
The formula is slightly creamy with an off-white colour and will lighten dark spots in about one month, with increased benefits the longer you use it. Some of our mature skin testers preferred this product due to its ultra-silky texture and quick turnaround time from the first application. “It’s like a power nap for my skin,” so says one of our most recent converts. And who doesn’t want to look like they get a regular kip?
Buy now £88.00, Net-A-Porter
Retinol Fast Release Wrinkle-Reducing Night Serum
You don’t need to be hugely well-versed in the intricacies of skincare ingredients to be familiar with retinol. The vitamin A derivative has become a household name for its anti-ageing effects but due to its irritating properties, it tends to be infused into products in low quantities and with use every so often, which leaves you with slow-acting results. No longer.
Kiehl’s has changed the retinol game with this formula that is designed to penetrate 15 layers deep from the surface of the skin to speed up cell turnover and leave you with a refreshed, revived complexion. It contains 0.3 per cent pure retinol in the ingredient line-up with a ‘fast-release delivery system’ to give you visible results after just five days of use - even on the more stubborn, deep-set wrinkles.
Buy now £75.00, Kiehl’s
SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 Face Cream for Ageing and Blemish-Prone Skin
A pea-sized amount of this highly-concentrated cream in the evening is enough to help refine and repair sensitive skin that is showing signs of ageing, from wrinkles to pigmentation, or is prone to inflamed breakouts.
The special delivery system that gets the retinol to where it’s needed keeps the ingredients stable as it smooths and improves tone as well as encourages natural hyaluronic acid in the skin to increase, giving a plumper appearance.
Two botanical extracts, from chamomile and frankincense, help to minimise any inflammation or irritation, plus the fine nozzle dispenser keeps the formula’s potency intact and discourages you from over-applying too.
Buy now £65.00, lookfantastic
Paula’s Choice Clinical 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment
The skincare experts over at Paula’s Choice have paired bakuchiol with retinol for an anti-ageing product that packs a serious punch. The advanced formula contains two per cent of the plant-based derivative and just 0.3 per cent of retinol so it should work for all skin types, particularly as the bakuchiol acts as a support system for the skin as a natural anti-inflammatory to make the retinol easier to tolerate.
It also amplifies it to make vitamin A more efficacious. You’ll notice a huge improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in just a couple of weeks. Introduce the product into your skincare routine gently and before building up with more regular use.
Buy now £50.15, Paula’s Choice
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum
Murad’s Retinol Youth Renewal Serum may not be the cheapest serum around but it’s often on offer and deserves to be snapped up. As its name suggests, this is an anti-ageing serum that works its magic mostly through retinol.
Its fast-absorbing, breakthrough formula is powered by the brand’s “Retinol Tri-Active Technology”, which is made up of a fast-acting retinoid, a time-released retinol and a retinol booster, just to make sure you’re suitably covered.
It’s also one that promises a little extra glow, thanks to its swertia flower extract, which encourages a luminous, youthful-looking complexion.
Buy now £78.50, lookfantastic
Verdict
As part of a pared-back, well-executed and clever collection, Dr David Jack Good Night really does cover all bases. It manages to pack a serious anti-ageing punch on multiple levels without any need to be concerned about redness or irritation. Skin not feels soft and beautifully comfortable overnight, but the luminosity and line-softening benefits it brings to the complexion thanks to an impressive roster of ingredients really are standout.
