When it comes to military watches, the clue’s really in the name.
It specifically refers to timepieces that have been designed to stomach the rough and tumble required of those in the armed forces.
Otherwise known as tactical or field watches, the term derived from back in the day when they were developed exclusively under contract for a country’s army, navy or air force, but soon found their way onto the wrists of everyday folk who simply favoured their no-nonsense aesthetics and cutting-edge features.
As you’d expect, military watches were crafted to withstand the particularly adverse physical conditions experienced by those in combat, meaning they’re usually stripped-back in their design with very few extraneous facets. It’s about getting the job done efficiently and effectively.
Think durable materials resistant to impact, corrosion, water and heat; luminous faces for visibility in even the darkest of conditions; reliable mechanisms that function at different temperatures and altitudes over long, punishing periods of time; ease and speed of serviceability; and, finally, simplicity when it comes to reading and operating. Much like the good folks they were originally designed for, military watches are under a lot of pressure to perform well, and perform well they do.
Mike France, CEO and co-founder of British watch brand Christopher Ward, says: “In a world that seems to undervalue its institutions, it’s perhaps a surprise that watches associated with the military are more popular than ever. Maybe it’s their connection to history and the security provided by the armed forces that are the attraction in these increasingly uncertain times. Whatever the reason, premium timepieces with an authentic link in design and narrative to our men and women of valour have never been more in-demand.”
You heard the man. Here, we round-up the latest and greatest military watches in the world, sure to have you feeling like a solider.
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Casio G-Shock GD-350-1BER
G-Shock by famous Japanese maker Casio were all the rage back in the 90s, beloved for their ultra-chunky designs and high-performance features, but it’s the GD-350-1BER that comes with exclusive functions specifically geared towards military use.
The clever vibration alarm, for example, discreetly alerts you to timer features like countdowns, while large buttons and a clear LCD ensure reliability under the toughest of conditions. Other USPs include water-resistance up to 200m, a sturdy resin strap, scratch-proof glass and button illumination that can be switched off for discretion.
It’s time to revive a classic.
Buy now £82.36, Amazon
Longines Military
As one of the best value-for-money watchmakers around, Longines’ take on a military timepiece is one of our top picks, offering a winning combination of refined looks and quality craftsmanship.
Inspired by the original watches created during the 1940s for the Royal Air Force, this updated design replicates ageing by decorating the 38.5mm dial with hand-sprayed black droplets for a unique finish on every piece, while it’s protected by scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and powered by a L888 calibre movement.
A natural green leather strap adds old-school luxury.
Buy now £2150.00, Mappin and Webb
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm
Bringing together the best of Swiss watchmaking and American design, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is the perfect example of a contemporary military watch, reproducing the military specs of the 1960s original with modern-day alterations.
Understated good looks come in the form of a 38mm matt stainless-steel case, black dial with luminescent numerals, and a durable fabric strap in khaki-green.
Buy now £530.00, Hamilton
Polar Grit X Pro
Polar, the Finnish watchmaker, knows a thing or two about crafting killer timepieces: this, the Grit X Pro, is a case in point. It’s built for military-level durability with scratch-resistant sapphire glass and a seriously long battery life (up to seven days). Tech-wise, it’s packing navigation tools, always-on outdoor features – from compass to coordinates – and training solutions. All of which makes this heavy-duty number as good for runners as it is for soldiers.
Buy now £344.25, Polar
Rotary Commando Pilot
The Commando by Rotary is a modern spin on a vintage pilot’s watch with a utilitarian dial design featuring large hands and bold numbers for increased legibility. Tactile rivets on the brown leather strap to stop the watch sliding off the wrist mid-flight; and a clever automatic movement that synchronises the time by stopping the movement of the second hand when adjusting.
Another nod to its inspiration comes in the form of a screw-down crown featured on originals so pilots could still operate them while wearing gloves in freezing cockpits. Superb value for money.
Buy now £279.00, Rotary
Rolex Explorer II
A watch-round-up – of any kind – without Rolex? We think not.
The Explorer II is a worthy addition, not just by its very name, but because it’s as tough as it’s beautiful. Smart aesthetics aside, which could easily take you from wild adventuring to working in the office, features include a white dial with arrow-shaped hand and Chromalight display for visibility in the darkest of conditions; an additional 24-hour display and fixed bezel to distinguish the hours of the day from the hours of the night; and an Oystersteel bracelet that harnesses aerospace technology for maximum resistance to corrosion.
Beauty meets brains.
Buy now £8100.00, Goldsmiths
Breitling Endurance Pro 44
If anything says ‘army’, it’s the Endurance Pro 44 from Breitling, with a khaki-green rubber strap and bold black dial with a sense of adventure. The case itself is made from an ultra-light, super-robust material that’s 5.8 times lighter than stainless-steel, making it a supremely lightweight timepiece on the wrist, although not at the detriment of cutting-edge tech with a Breitling 82 calibre movement and a SuperQuartz chronography for expert precision.
Buy now £2800.00, Goldsmiths
Garmin Instinct 2 Solar Tactical Edition
American tech brand Garmin knows a few things about navigation, and with the Instinct 2 Solar Tactical Edition, it’s clear it knows what makes a military-style watch tick, too. At a very reasonable price point, this is a GPS smartwatch with rugged good looks and tactical-specific features. Expect specialist night vision, unlimited battery life with solar charging, military-grade toughness, built-in sports apps, integrated satellite access and 24/7 health monitoring. Mission impossible? Completed it, mate.
Buy now £399.99, Garmin
Tudor Ranger M79950-0003 watch
The Ranger by Tudor – whose strapline is ‘born to dare’ – pays homage to the 1952 mission that saw a team of brave explorers set off on the British North Greenland Expedition with Tudor watches on their wrists.
There are three styles to choose from, although our pick is the 39mm steel case accented with an olive-green jacquard weave strap complete with a burgundy and beige stripe.
It’s fitted with an automatic movement, boasts 70 hours of power reserve and features a black dial that glows in the dark.
Buy now £2370.00, Selfridges
Vertex The M100A
Paying tribute to the iconic watch that London-based maker Vertex famously produced for the British military is the finely-honed 40mm M100A. Made to resemble the original timepiece but updated with modern specifications, it tells the story of brave young soldiers fighting for their country, while it features a durable leather strap, automatic Swiss movement and unique moulded dial. Founded during the First World War by Claude Lyons, this timepiece is testament to Vertex remaining one of the best suppliers of military watches in the world.
Buy now £2500.00, Vertex
Christopher Ward C65 Sandhurst Series 2
Named after the iconic military academy, the C65 Sandhurst Series 2 by British watchmaker Christopher Ward is a real investment piece, offering plenty of bang for your buck in a timeless design that’s officially approved by His Majesty’s Armed Forces. As the only watch in the brand’s stable to carry the heraldic badge of the British Army, this next-gen iteration of the Sandhurst boasts redesigned arrow hands, a Swiss chronometer movement and a textured black dial. Its neat 38mm case is bang-on trend, too, while its Mid-Century aesthetics will remain cool for years to come.
Buy now £1100.00, Christopher Ward
