While never been out of fashion per se, it seems the classic dress watch is making quite the comeback in 2023.
Whether this is inspired by the copious amount of Cartier Tanks on the red carpet - spotted on the likes of Paul Mescal, Jake Gyllenhaal and Rami Malek to name but a few, the rising interest in vintage 1920s designs or simply this year’s obsession with all things ‘quiet luxury’, there are a number of reasons why these elegant timepieces have solidified their must-have status.
While wristwatches may have been originally invented as a purely functional tool, the post-World War II era initiated the demand for sophisticated styles taken for a spin solely on the most formal of occasions. These designs were made to be seen, created to fit beneath the cuff of a shirt so you could have a sneak peak at the time without seeming like you’re dying to leave whatever tiresome event you’re attending (we’ve all been there...).
Today, the silhouette remains slim, with a diameter of up to 40mm. The strap is usually leather and they have a simple face with minimal ‘complications’ - which is the official jargon for extra features like a date window, alarms or alternative time zones.
Tradition once deemed us gents should wear the dress watch exclusively for black tie functions, but rules are meant to be broken - so flaunt them whenever and wherever you go (except for the gym which is a definite no-no).
The hard part is choosing the right style for you amongst the sheer volume available on the market. Our top tip? Narrow the search down with the type of jewellery you wear. Those who are partial to silver should be looking for a silver face whilst chrysophilists should stick to - you guessed it - gold.
Then it’s time to think about the strap. If you wear warm earthy tones, you should consider brown leather, while if you prefer a cooler palette (think blues and greys), you should consider black.
The good news? The formal aesthetic will never go out of style, so it’s a piece you can invest in. Whether you’re really splashing out on one of the horological giants like Tag Heuer or Longines or would rather try a more affordable alternative by Mondaine or Tissot, make sure you choose a style you can see yourself wearing for years to come.
Without further ado, it’s time to find your wrist’s new companion in our top pick below.
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Longines Elegant Collection 39mm Automatic Mens Watch
Dating back to 1832, Swiss brand Longines is known for its expert craftsmanship and elegant designs. Boasting a Swiss-made automatic movement, classic face and slim form, this 39mm is the perfect dress watch for any formal occasion. The wrist candy has a brilliant white face, black leather strap, and sophisticated date window, which mean it will work with any sharp suiting in your wardrobe, as well as create a smart casual look for date night.
Buy now £1480.00, Goldsmiths
Hamilton American Classic
One of the most iconic watch brands of our time, you’d be hard-pushed to find a timepiece fan who’s not heard of Hamilton. Fusing Swiss-made precision with its American roots, the brand marries the best of both worlds for designs that are packed with both character and quality. If you’re in the market for a collegiate style à la Dead Poets Society (and, I mean, who isn’t?), this is the watch for you.
Buy now £675.00, Hamilton
Junghans Max Bill Quartz 38mm
This German brand may have begun wristwatch production in 1927, but it wasn’t until the 50s that Bauhaus-trained designer Max Bill came on board - and it’s his aesthetic that forms the basis of Junghans’ current offering, including this pared-back style. It’s the only proof you need that less really is more.
Buy now £775.00, Goldsmiths
Monofore M01 Gold 38mm / Black
2023 is the year of the rectangular face - so Monofore’s classic style should be going straight into your basket. A carefully considered design, the brand’s signature curved dial with domed glass eliminates the chance of shadows, while the dial’s matte texture delivers an elegant finish.
Buy now £220.00, Monofore
Georg Jensen Koppel - 38mm / 1.5in, Quartz, White Dial, black Leather Strap
Quiet luxury is this year’s most sought-after aesthetic, so Copenhagen-based accessories label Georg Jensen’s understated yet elevated pieces should be making their way to the top of the list of any chap who’d like to stay on trend. Scandi minimalism never looked so good.
Buy now £795.00, Georg Jensen
Certina DS POWERMATIC 80
Dating back to 1888, Certina is associated with explorers and champions, from being the first watch to ascend Dhaulagiri in the Himalayas in 1960, to the brand of choice for Muhammad Ali. The DS Powermatic 80 has a classic vintage appeal with a gold face and brown leather strap, and would look just as good on an octogenarian as it would on their grandchildren. With an 80-hour power reserve and 100-metre water resistance, it’ll take you on even the most challenging expeditions - even if that’s just a trip to the pub.
Buy now £780.00, The Watch Hut
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Watch, Large Model, Quartz Movement, Yellow Gold
Perhaps the most sought-after watch right now, the Cartier tank is having a moment. Not only has the silhouette been recently spotted on the wrists of Troye Sivan, Paul Mescal and Rami Malek, but the classic design has been loved through the generations by the likes of Cary Grant, Truman Capote and Muhammad Ali, proving it’s a timeless classic that every stylish chap could do with in their watch collection - if you have £11,000 to spare, that is.
Buy now £11000.00, Goldsmiths
Mondaine Classic Brushed Case Black Vegan Grape Leather 40mm
Taking inspiration from classic Swiss railway clocks, the origins of Mondaine’s signature face date back to 1944, when Hans Hilfiker invented the iconic railway design - but it wasn’t until 1986 that the watchmaker created a wrist-ready version.
Simple yet impactful, the monochrome colourway is punctuated with Swiss-red details for a stylish addition to any man’s wrist. Better yet, the strap is crafted using grape leather for a sustainable, vegan-friendly purchase that doesn’t compromise on quality.
Buy now £229.00, Mondaine
Frederique Constant Men’s Classics Chronograph Date Leather Strap Watch, Black/Silver
A watch for the elegant gent, Frederique Constant’s dress watch is classic through and through. Roman indices? Check. Leather strap? Check. Monochrome colourway? Check. Even better, it features a chronograph function and a date window too.
Buy now £795.00, John Lewis
Tag Heuer Carrera Three - Hand Automatic Mens 39mm Watch
Every man’s sure to have heard of Tag Heuer. Better known for its sporty aesthetic, the heritage Swiss watchmaker offers expertly designed dress watches too. The Carrera Three, which is powered by automatic movement, has a 39mm steel case which houses a shining silver dial.
Buy now £2700.00, Goldsmiths
Tissot Classic Dream Yellow Gold-Plated Leather Quartz Men’s Watch
With a brown leather strap and a gold-plated case, the Classic Dream from Tissot could easily be mistaken for the Grand Complications by Patek Philippe, both Swiss brands crafting a similarly beautiful watch boasting timeless appeal. The key differentiator? Tissot’s can be yours for under £300 while Patek Philippe’s retails from £80,000 upwards.
There’s no denying the latter is the very pinnacle of luxury watchmaking, but the Classic Dream offers plenty of bang for your buck, featuring an ivory dial with gold-plated hands and hour markers, a yellow gold-plated bezel, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass and reliable quartz movement. A dream, indeed.
Buy now £290.00, Beaverbrooks
Rado Coupole Classic Automatic Power Reserve
A traditional watch that’s been given Rado’s signature sapphire crystal makeover, this is a timepiece that’s sure to bring a shine to your look. From the mock-croc strap for added character to the anti-reflective coating for easy readability, it’s a luxury design that won’t disappoint.
Buy now £1600.00, Rado
