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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Ellie Davis

Best gourmand perfume: The sumptuous dessert-like fragrances

Gourmand perfumes are dominating the latest fragrance trends.

The scent category is associated with feel-good, olfactory desserts that are rich, sweet and so tastebud tickling you could almost eat them. Typically starring accords of vanilla, tonka bean, caramel and honey, catch a whiff and you are met with a familiar, comforting and joyful feeling, reminiscent of piping hot buttery pastries or fruity marmalade on toast.

Guerlain Shalimar is attributed with creating the first gourmand perfume back in 1925, unveiling a vanilla-rich concoction that was a descendant of amber and the Oriental family. But, as a scent category, it really picked up steam in the 1990s – think Mugler’s Angel, the popularity of which continues to this day.

The enduring appeal of gourmand is demonstrated in its return to the top of the scent agenda – it has been pegged as one of the biggest fragrance trends of 2024 and there are over 47.3M posts on vanilla perfumes alone on TikTok and counting and 22.7M posts related to gourmand fragrances.

Many attribute this to the playfulness of the notes. Gourmand fragrances are fun, joyful and uncomplicated - the perfect antidote the uncertainty of our modern times.

The fragrance compositions of these calorie-free mouth-watering scents are primed for the colder seasons too - autumn with its toffee apples and winter with cinnamon spice. Hamid Marati-Kashani, founder of Fabbrica Della Musa and renowned perfumer, explains “Winter fragrances tend to be warm, rich and intense, often featuring notes that are heavier and more enveloping, such as woody, oriental and powdery scents.

“Notes like caramel, tonka bean, chocolate, and vanilla are perfect for the colder months, as well as resins and spices like cinnamon, cardamom and clove. To balance the depth of these scents, adding a hint of freshness can create a well-rounded fragrance”.

As the gourmand trend has evolved, so too has the scent pairings. The movement towards hyper gourmands has seen the saccharine overload peppered with spicy or smoky elements for more depth and refinement and to balance out the creamy sweetness. The result is a well-rounded, luxe and dynamic aroma.

Shop the best gourmand perfumes below, from newest launches from Victoria Beckham and Phlur to ever-popular icons from Mugler and Kilian.

Victoria Beckham 21:50 Rêverie

Victoria Beckham has approached the formulation of her fragrance collection with nostalgia. Each aroma harks back to a poignant moment in her life, whether it’s the early days of her relationship with David Beckham (Portofino '97) or the time the Beckhams spent in LA (San Ysidro Drive).

21:50 Rêverie is the olfactory representation of a trip that the power couple took to the Indonesian Java valleys in 2001, capturing the island’s rice fields and vanilla vines in scent form. Beckham leaned on master parfumier Jérôme Epinette to compose the genderless aroma who infused vanilla, cedarwood and tonka bean for the amber-woody creation. To break away from the sugary sweetness of this combination, there are touches of plum and tobacco leaves.

Buy now £170.00, Victoria Beckham

Gucci Flora Gorgeous Orchid Eau de Parfum for Women

The gourmand aroma in the beloved Gucci Flora Gorgeous collection, the yellow-toned flacon is filled with the rich and potent notes of vanilla and orchids. It is a scent that plays off contrasts by setting the warming touch of vanilla with the fresh marine Ozonic accord that brings balance and prevents it from becoming overly sweet.

The fragrance leaves a lasting impression where only a little goes a long way and is refillable.

Also available at John Lewis

Buy now £54.40, Gucci

L’Artisan Perfumer Tonka Blanc eau de parfum

Tonka bean is a note often found in gourmand fragrances and it takes a starring role in L’Artisan Perfumer’s creation. Nose perfumer Alexandra Carlin took inspiration from sweet-tooth satisfying desserts to create it and is the first on the market to include natural vegetable extract.

The scent composition calls on bergamot, tangerine and the unlikely addition of cauliflower bringing a surprisingly sweet touch. Tonka bean offers a creamy element characteristic of the gourmand category but has a freshness with contrasting citrus fruits. There is also a warm note of balsams.

Buy now £170.00, Selfridges

The Harmonist Hypnotizing Fire Parfum

The Harmonist’s approach to perfumery is unlike any other on the market. The brand references the ancient practice of Feng Shui to provide balance with every spritz. The result is an evocative personal fragrance experience that ignites all the senses. With this in mind, when formulating its gourmand collection, the French label aimed to bring more subtlety to a category often considered overly saccharine.

As such, its Hypnotizing Fire Parfum harnesses the creaminess of Madagascan vanilla but as the base, while the opener of Jamaican sun-soaked pimento berries with the sweetness of Bulgarian rose extract offers a combination that is both floral but spicy.

Buy now £255.00, Harrods

Tom Ford Amber Intrigue Eau de Parfum

An impact-making aroma, the Tom Ford Amber Intrigue is for the bold. The potent hit of scent from every spray is unmissable, long-lasting and memorable. This is achieved through the many elements that are juxtaposed, offering complexity and warmth. To create Amber Intrigue, the fragrance house has set a gourmand cinnamon-spiced date accord with velvety sandalwood, violet with woody sandalwood oil and amber with smoky labdanum.

Buy now £300.00, Harrods

Phlur Vanilla Skin Eau De Parfum

There is always a sense of familiarity with the Phlur fragrance collection, from the TikTok-viral Missing Person to its newer Vanilla Skin scent. What the brand does well is to offer a recognisable, comforting touch that draws you in and then turns it on its head.

For the latter aroma, it does this by setting the decadent note of vanilla with all its creamy sweetness that you would expect with the spice of pink pepper. This is combined as the opener before drying down with sandalwood for a deep, warming finish.

Buy now £99.00, Space NK

Floral Street Wild Vanilla Orchid Eau De Parfum

The most affordable fragrance in this collection, Floral Street proves that you need not spend a fortune to spritz a delicious gourmand aroma. Housed in the brand’s signature patterned flacon, the Wild Vanilla Orchid will keep you on your toes. Unlike the classic vanilla-based perfumes, it’s a fresh green floral fragrance thanks to the Indian jasmine sambac but remains warming and deep with the vanilla bean and amber notes.

Much like the entire Floral Street offering, this scent is composed of sustainably sourced ingredients, is free from plastic packaging and is vegan.

Buy now £24.65, Floral Street

Mugler Angel

It is no surprise that Mugler’s Angel scent has remained as popular today as it was in 1992 when it launched. The aroma is truly distinctive and unique with endless repurchase appeal – to the delight of its legion of fans.

For some, it’s irresistible and an immediate signature, while others turn away from the strong scent. It’s certainly heady, which makes it ideal for the winter season and it creates a scent trail that lasts and lasts. The award-winning aroma opens with bright notes of peony and mandarin before drying down with gourmand praline and woody patchouli.

Buy now £130.00, lookfantastic

Kilian Paris Angels Share

Worn by: Beyonce

When Beyonce brought her Renaissance world tour to the UK, it appears she made the most of her time with the best that Britain has to offer, from her near-£2000 Nando’s takeaway to stopping by Harrods after hours where it was reported that she took the opportunity to stock up on By Kilian’s Angels Share.

Not even Queen Bey could resist that beautiful flacon or the cognac-inspired aroma that was inspired by the perfumer’s heritage as the eighth generation of Hennessy (yup, the very same). The name comes from the product lost during the practice of wine-making, while the caramel colour mimics that of the legendary liquor.

As for the scent, it opens with cognac oil, oak absolute, cinnamon essence and tonka bean absolute before leaving sandalwood, praline and vanilla in its wake. It’s strong, intense and incredibly long-lasting.

Buy now £210.00, John Lewis

Maison Francis Kurkdjian APOM, A Part of Me

The acronym APOM stands for ‘a part of me’, a poetic name that alludes to the inspiration behind Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s latest aroma – to leave a part of yourself with others.

The genderless scent was not so originally. The eponymous nose behind the label had two perfumes under the APOM title back in 2009 at the founding of the fragrance house, a dedicated one for men and one for women, but the new evolution encapsulates the “feminine sensuality and the masculine elegant addictiveness”, as described by the brand.

The result is an amber, floral fougère fragrance that is decidedly modern. Its predecessors were based around the matrix of lavender and orange blossom and these notes are still at the core where the aromatic nature of blossoming lavender is expertly played off with the luminosity of orange blossom but enveloped in warming vanilla. The scent trail that lingers, the part of you that remains, is ylang-ylang and white musks.

Buy now £115.00, John Lewis

Jean Paul Gaultier Gaultier Divine Eau de Parfum

Jean Paul Gaultier’s signature bottle has been given a striking makeover, more closely resembling the iconic cone bra that Madonna wore on the first night of her Blond Ambition tour in 1990. The corset, however, comes in gold, matching the hue of the fragrance within and reflecting the warmth of its scent.

The notes take inspiration from the power of the sun. An opening of lily evolves into a white flower bouquet at the heart that has been given a sweet twist with meringue. It’s a marine floral that is light and fresh. The bottle is refillable, and the fragrance comes presented in a lovely gift tin.

Buy now £74.00, The Perfume Shop

Jimmy Choo I Want Choo Forever Eau de Parfum, 40ml

This fragrance from the Jimmy Choo line-up will be universally appreciated for any upcoming gift. It offers a fruity, floral aroma that is revitalising in its olfactory experience, while also feeling sensual to take you after hours with ease.

The top note of rose is immediately apparent as you take the first whiff but is counterbalanced by spicy pink peppercorn. At the heart, unique black cherry liquor, jasmine sambac and vetiver take centre stage, while vanilla and tonka beans round it off at the base.

Buy now £51.00, John Lewis

Burberry Her Eau de Toilette for her 30ml

In a pared-back modern flacon, Burberry is letting the fragrance do the talking with this fruity scent. Encouraging you to get up and go as you mist yourself each morning, the blossoming aroma has a combination of peony, green pear, strawberry, blackcurrant and pink peppercorn to thank for its uplifting spirit. To take it to the next level, there’s honeysuckle, lily of the valley and rose at the heart that is given depth with musk and cedarwood.

Buy now £36.77, Sephora

Ariana Grande Cloud Eau de Parfum

Topping the music and fragrance charts simultaneously, there’s nothing Ariana can’t do.

Released in 2019, Cloud is inspired by a euphoric world that smells of juicy pear, whipped coconut cream and praline for the most mouth-watering mix. You’ve also got nuances of lavender blossom and musk to add a touch of mystery.

Possibly the most eye-catching perfume a dressing table could ask for, the bottle slots into the cloud creating a piece of art.

Buy now £35.00, The Perfume Shop

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