CORTINA d’AMPEZZO, Italy — Every Olympics is only as good as its mass transportation, and this particular moment was a snapshot of Italian inefficiency. Trying to descend into town from the Alpine ski venue on the night of Feb. 18, 23 of us were crammed like circus clowns into a van with 11 seats. Everyone had winter coats and work backpacks, and a few passengers had skis, boots, helmets and poles. So many armpits, so little room.
And then it got worse. A sudden roadblock on the winding path down. Unsmiling Carabinieri with flashlights, issuing orders to get off the van for it to be searched. Nobody knew what was going on.
