Australian supermarket liquid chicken stock taste test: ‘A product literally made from chicken does not taste so’

‘You can imagine my shock and confusion when, after tasting 12 supermarket chicken stocks, barely any of them were good’: Nicholas Jordan during the taste test. Photograph: Isabella Moore/The Guardian

I have made a great number of stocks, all of them with the improvisational and scarcity-focused spirit of a preindustrial nonna. And despite my lack of actual nonna skills, plus the questionable age and quality of ingredients used, none of them were bad.

So you can imagine my shock and confusion when, after tasting 12 supermarket chicken stocks, barely any of them were good.