Those who experience hyperpigmentation will be aware that the condition manifests itself often through uneven skin tone, post-blemish marks and darker patches on the skin. It can also appear as melasma, usually in larger patches. There are a range of causal factors, from UV exposure to medication and pregnancy, but in all cases, something has triggered the the skin to produce excess melanin in the deep, epidermal layers, which then shows up on the surface of the skin.
While there are some amazing topical ingredients you can try (from vitamin C to niacinamide), some cases of hyperpigmentation may need further treatment – often in-clinic.
I asked four experts which professional treatments they recommended, spanning from laser facials to chemical peels.
1. Skin Laundry The Signature Laser Facial
What you need to know
- Who this is best suited to: Anyone
- Price: Treatments start at £250
- Recovery time: Zero downtime
- Treatment time: 15 to 30 minutes
- Areas: The face
- Pain: Minimal
- Frequency: Dependant on the individual, but a series is usually 8-10
- BOOK HERE
Skin Laundry was one of the very first to make laser facials feel accessible, and it continues to be an easy win with its quick, effective treatments that target a whole host of concerns, including hyperpigmentation. Dr. Roberta Del Campo at Skin Laundry explains that the facial is special as it "targets all forms of hyperpigmentation in the dermal layers of the skin without causing excessive inflammation."
"The heat energy breaks up pigment, which is then excreted through the lymphatic system. The beauty of the Signature Laser Facial is it can bypass the upper healthy melanin in the skin and really target that abnormal pigmentation."
Regular treatments (more on this later) lead to "brighter, more even-toned, even-textured skin.”
And if your case is a little more severe, Skin Laundry also have another option: "If you are looking to target hyperpigmentation caused by UV exposure or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) you can upgrade to the Power Signature Facial which delivers more than 2x the energy below the skin’s surface to precisely and painlessly break up hyperpigmentation more rapidly, along with added passes that can increase the treatment strength by up to 50%."
Results can be seen often after one treatment, but those with hyperpigmentation will likely benefit from a series (around 8-10), because the goal is to target the condition gently and safely: "The benefits of a Skin Laundry Signature Laser Facial and Power Signature Facial are both immediate and cumulative. After just one treatment, you’ll notice an instant glow. After four treatments, your skin will appear clearer, with reduced pigmentation. By the eighth treatment, you’ll see significant improvements in skin tone and clarity."
One of the major advantages of Skin Laundry facials is that they can be conducted in 15-30 minute appointments and there is zero downtime afterwards. The brand says it is pain-free, but as someone who has had the treatment I'd say it depends on your pain levels; I found it quite uncomfortable, but bearable and short-lived.
2. BBL (BroadBand Light) HEROic Therapy
What you need to know
- Who this is best suited to: Moderate to severe cases
- Price: Starting at £800
- Recovery time: Little to no downtime
- Treatment time: Dependant on the individual
- Areas: The face
- Pain: Some discomfort but bearable
- Frequency: Dependant on the individual
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Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London, would always opt for BBL (BroadBand Light) HEROic Therapy to treat hyperpigmentation in clinic, or another similar (yet stronger) laser treatment.
"In general, the treatment varies based on the severity of the condition," she clarifies. "For moderate to severe cases, I recommend BBL (BroadBand Light) HEROic therapy, as it targets and breaks down melanin in pigmented areas while stimulating collagen production. BBL HERoic is effective for addressing various types of pigmentation and improving overall skin tone and texture."
She continues: "For more stubborn or deeper pigmentation, my laser of choice is the HALO as it’s completely customisable. This is a hybrid fractional laser, meaning it combines both ablative and non-ablative wavelengths (essentially meaning it can target both the upper and lower layers of the skin). This unique combination allows for more effective treatment of deeper pigmentation, as well as improving the skin’s surface. The ablative element addresses more significant pigmentation by targeting deeper skin layers, while the non-ablative part works on the surface, promoting collagen production and overall skin texture improvement."
In terms of how long you'd need with the laser, how many courses of treatment and whether you'll experience pain or discomfort, Dr Mahto says "this will completely vary between individuals. No two cases are the same and it takes a very personalised approach to come up with the best plan."
3. The Perfect Peel® Chemical Peel
What you need to know
- Who this is best suited to: Those not ready for laser
- Price: £300
- Recovery time: Redness and peeling may occur in first 7 days
- Treatment time: 15 minutes
- Areas: The face
- Pain: Stinging or tingling may occur
- Frequency: Dependant on individual, but often once every four weeks
- BOOK HERE
If you aren't ready to invest in lasers or need something a bit quicker, a chemical peel is another option. Stronger than over-the-counter topical masks and able to penetrate more deeply, these peels need to be administered by a professional.
Aesthetic Nurse, NIP (Nurse Independent Prescriber), Clinical Director and Founder of PRKT®, Kelly Saynor, says The Perfect Peel® is her go-to treatment.
"Chemical peels are extremely effective for hyperpigmentation – they accelerate cell turnover, exfoliating the outer layers of the skin, removing areas with excess melanin," she explains.
"The Perfect Peel® harnesses a unique blend of ingredients, including glutathione, a powerful antioxidant that reduces melanin production and promotes skin brightening. It combines this with exfoliating acids that remove damaged skin layers, helping to fade dark spots and even out skin tone."
While one treatment (which takes around 15 minutes) will improve overall skin tone, those with severe hyperpigmentation would benefit from repeat appointments, every four weeks or so. The peel may sting or tingle a little when applied, but numbing cream can be applied beforehand. You will see results within a week or so after your first treatment.
4. The Well: Complexion Correction
What you need to know
- Who this is best suited to: Those with multiple concerns
- Price: £650
- Recovery time: 3-17 days
- Treatment time: 45 minutes
- Areas: The face and neck
- Pain: A warm sensation
- Frequency: Usually two to three
- BOOK HERE
Another alternative is a nitrogen plasma therapy treatment, such as the one at The Well. Dr Dara Suite, medical director at The Well, says: "The Well: Complexion Correction is my go-to. While uneven pigmentation and skin tone can be a challenging condition to address, this treatment harnesses powerful nitrogen plasma therapy that resurfaces the entire structure of the skin to effectively treat multiple concerns at once including hyperpigmentation, photo-damage, dark spots, acne scars, and poor skin tone and texture."
Dr Suite explains that treatment plans are very much dependant on an individual's skin type and health, and the degree of their condition. "In general terms, two to three treatments are needed for optimal results." Each treatment should take place around four to six weeks apart.
In terms of what you can expect during and after each 45 minute appointment, there's no need to worry about it hurting, as Dr Suite says "there is a warm sensation but no pain." She does add, however, that "following the treatment, some patients feel a similar sensation to mild sunburn" but that "for the deepest settings, numbing cream can be applied beforehand if the patient needs it."
You need to take time afterwards to recover and lay low; around three to five days, "although the neck area can take a little longer to heal (7-14 days) depending on how deep the treatment goes." Side effects experienced during healing may include a "bronzing effect" or redness and dry flaking, but most will disappear after a few days. "New skin generation will activate over several weeks to a month," concludes Dr Suite.
