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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Morwenna Ferrier

Artist, impresario, couturier: V&A to stage Schiaparelli retrospective

B/W 1940 photo of designer Elsa Schiaparelli wearing black silk dress with crocheted collar of her own design and a turban
‘Image-maker, culture creator’: Elsa Schiaparelli in 1940. Photograph: Fredrich Baker/Conde Nast/Getty Images

When Kylie Jenner stood on the marble steps of the Petit Palais in 2023, a fake lion head attached to her off-shoulder dress, even by the standards of the youngest member of the Kardashian clan, the outfit looked a bit much.

Hand-painted for lifelike realism, the Schiaparelli head and dress were designed by the Texan Daniel Roseberry. Although already four years in the role of artistic director, the look was transformative – earning Jenner front row seats at the biggest shows and propelling the nearly century-old Paris fashion house, long overshadowed by Chanel, Balenciaga, and Dior, into viral ubiquity.

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