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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
James Tapper

Artisans turn to ancient recipes for UK cheese revival

Samantha and Ben Spence, each holding a block of cheese, grin as they stand back to back between shelves of big rounds of cheese
At Curlew Dairy in Wensley, North Yorkshire, cheesemakers Samantha and Ben Spence use a 100-year-old local recipe. Photograph: Richard Saker/the Observer

The hidden irony of A Grand Day Out, the animation that launched Wallace and Gromit, is that a 1950s Yorkshireman in search of a cracking wensleydale might just as well have looked for it on the moon.

Wensleydale, like most British cheeses other than cheddar and stilton, was almost destroyed in the postwar drive towards mass production. Fortunately, some of the centuries-old recipes for those lost cheeses were preserved, and a growing number of artisans are starting to make them again, from Wensleydale to Lancashire and Bangor to Ceredigion.

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