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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
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Emma Magnus

Area guide to Bethnal Green: gallerist Maureen Paley on her ‘richly rewarding’ east London area with similarities to New York

I came to live in the East End in 1977, and my gallery has been in Bethnal Green for 23 years — although it began in 1984 in my terraced house, close to London Fields.

At the time, it was like an open studio and very much an indie space. It’s grown to be the gallery that it is today.

My introduction to the area came from the Acme Artists Housing Association, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. I originally hailed from New York, and the roots and history of the area reminded me a great deal of the Lower East Side and Brooklyn.

Watching the area grow and change has been remarkable. The colleagues that surround me here are doing very good work, and there’s an edginess to what they present that I appreciate. I think I’ll stay here for the rest of my life — I have no intention of leaving.

Paley sees similarities with parts of New York in the history of her local area (Daniel Lynch)

Eating and drinking

Eating in the East End of London is as good as eating anywhere in the world. We are blessed in the area with some excellent chefs who are experimental and committed to using sustainable ingredients. The places they run are idiosyncratic, with their own character. We’re lucky to have them.

Some of my favourites are Brawn, on Columbia Road; Bistrotheque, on Wadeson Street; Elliot’s, on Mare Street; and Café Cecilia, on Andrews Road. Tomas Parry runs Brat, on Redchurch Street. I admire the menu and what they get up to.

Margot Henderson and Melanie Arnold run Rochelle Canteen, on Playground Gardens. They have pioneered the area and are special in what they do.

Jolene on Rechurch Street, run by Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim (Daniel Lynch)

For coffee, drinks and teas, there’s Jolene, on Redchurch Street. Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim, who owns it, is committed in his approach to food and drink. Knowing the people behind the restaurants has been really rewarding.

Where I work out

I don’t go anywhere specifically to exercise, but I do use the parks to walk in.

To commune with nature

“London Fields has its charm,” says Paley (Daniel Lynch)

It’s incredible to have greenery near where you live. Victoria Park is a beautiful park, and London Fields has its charm. Lauriston Village, the Pavilion and the lake there are all little haunts.

The canal and the waterways going up into the park are also very beautiful. Watching the seasons change through the parks and being able to appreciate them is special indeed.

Grocery shopping

There’s Broadway Market on a Saturday, as well as the actual shops inside. I’ve been devoted to Figs and Grain well before Planet Organic came to the market. Leila’s Shop on Calvert Avenue is very particular. She has an incredibly personal, good selection.

There’s a place called Provisions on Hackney Road which provides a whole range of things. I also use The Grocery on Kingsland Road.

I try to eat fresh, healthy produce. It’s incredible to have places nearby that provide you with food like that — and they’re trying to do it with care and discernment. I used to have to go into town to find it.

Broadway Market, where Paley likes to stock up on fresh, healthy foods (Daniel Lynch)

For a culture fix

For bookshops, Claire de Rouen Books on Globe Road, Donlon Books and Artwords Bookshop, both on Broadway Market, are all nearby.

There are number of good galleries, too, including The Approach, on Approach Road; Soft Opening, on Minerva Street; Project Native Informant, on Three Colts Lane; Herald St, on Herald Street; and Mother’s Tankstation, on Three Colts Lane.

I also like Carlos/Ishikawa in Cooks Yard, Emalin on Holywell Lane and Kate MacGarry on Old Nichol Street. Slightly further afield, I visit Whitechapel Gallery, Chisenhale Gallery and Tate.

Paley’s local cinema at Rich Mix (Daniel Lynch)

The library at Close-up Film Centre on Sclater Street is a hidden gem with a collection of more than 22,000 films, books and digital media. Rich Mix on Bethnal Green Road is the local cinema.

Brick Lane has great record shops and excellent chocolate at Dark Sugars. Labour and Wait, on Redchurch Street, sells functional, timelessly designed products.

Getting around

Many people cycle or walk around the area. There are some great buses, like the 254 and 55, and the Central Line from Bethnal Green station goes to the West End.

Houses near Jesus Green (Daniel Lynch)

Dream street

I always love the houses on Jesus Green and their proximity to Columbia Road Flower Market. That would be a wonderful place to live.

Something you only see in Bethnal Green

Columbia Road Flower Market is particular to the area. It’s fantastic to visit.

What’s the catch?

There is no catch.

In three words

Richly rewarding (after) research.

Maureen Paley runs galleries in Bethnal Green, Shoreditch and Hove. Maureen Paley gallery is participating in Frieze London, running fromOctober 11-15 (maureenpaley.com).

Schools

There are 10 outstanding primary schools in the area, including Globe Primary School, Mowlem Primary School and Sebright School. A further 22 primaries are rated as good.

Swanlea School and Mossbourne Victoria Park Academy are the top choices for secondaries close by, both rated as outstanding.

What it costs

Buying in Bethnal Green

Average flat price: £494,680

Average house price: £970,030

Renting in Bethnal Green

Average flat price: £2,630 pcm

Average house price: £3,550 pcm

Source: Hamptons & Land Registry

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