With prices soaring across the board, last month’s news that Tesco has launched a range of wines at under £5 might seem welcome – but how good a wine can you really get for that kind of money?
The answer, I found, is not that great. After all, once you’ve factored in duty, tax, bottling, packaging and all other costs, there’s only about 20p of wine in a bottle costing less than £4, say. While none of them was actively undrinkable, there wasn’t much wine character in the two Casa Maña wines I tried (a red tempranillo and a rosé), made, incidentally, by Felix Solis, the outfit that produces Tesco’s own-label alcohol-free wines.