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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Fiona Beckett

Are bargain wines really worth buying?

Spaghetti alle vongolle, with a white wine.
Marques del Norte ‘vintage’ cava, at £7, has ‘an attractive freshness that works well with any seafood’. Photograph: Ola O Smit/The Guardian. Food styling: Ellie Mulligan. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins.

With prices soaring across the board, last month’s news that Tesco has launched a range of wines at under £5 might seem welcome – but how good a wine can you really get for that kind of money?

The answer, I found, is not that great. After all, once you’ve factored in duty, tax, bottling, packaging and all other costs, there’s only about 20p of wine in a bottle costing less than £4, say. While none of them was actively undrinkable, there wasn’t much wine character in the two Casa Maña wines I tried (a red tempranillo and a rosé), made, incidentally, by Felix Solis, the outfit that produces Tesco’s own-label alcohol-free wines.

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