Fun: Bompas & Parr will showcase its typically flamboyant puddings
(Picture: Press handout)The operators behind the relaunch of the failed Arcade Food Theatre have announced the restaurants that will open in the all-day space when it faces the public once more, on April 22.
JKS Restaurants, the group known for Gymkhana, Brigadiers and Hoppers — as well as its investment in the likes of the George and the Cadogan Arms — stepped in during summer last year to bolster the team running the Arcade Food Theatre, which had a tricky run of things after opening in 2019, beneath the Centre Point tower on Tottenham Court Road. The site was once a bus depot and runs to some 12,500 square foot; original expectations for the site were 1,000 visitors a day meaning that, if JKS now get it right, the site could be one of London’s most successful dining operations.
The change is an overhaul rather an than update, with the original, opening roll call of vendors — which included a Lina Stores restaurant; Pastorcito; Pophams Bakery; Casita do Frango and Chotto by Chotto Matte — now nowhere to be seen. Instead, the nine new names include Saborcito, a little sister to Nieves Barragán Mohacho’s Sabor; Shatta & Toum, a shawarma spot from Berenjak founder Kian Samyani; Hero, a North Indian fast food kitchen; and Benham & Froud Jelladrome, a pudding bar put together by Mad Hatter-ish food artists Bompas & Parr.
As first announced in March, the flagship restaurant will be Plaza Khao Gaeng. The permanent project follows Viá»tpopulaire, the pop-up by head chef and founder Luke Farrell. The pop-up was a first for JKS, and something of a comeback for Farrell, who made his name some 12 years ago by running one of the city’s first bánh mì restaurants, Viá»tBaguette. Khao Gaeng will offer “Southern Thai comfort food”, JKS promise. The term khao gaeng translates as “curry over rice”, and refers to a style of casual Thai cafe popular with workers where diners collect a plate of rice and choose a curry to top it with. Curries will include sour orange Gaeng Som number, as well as dry, wok-friend prok Kua Kling and stir-fried pad satoor goong, where salted sator bean dish are plated with prawns.
Farrell’s low-key offering appears to be an off-piste choice to lead the hall, but the chef is unsually dedicated to his ingredients, with many grown at his Dorset-based greenhouse, Ryewater, with the implication that Plaza Khao Gaeng will offer some of the most true-tasting Thai food in London, unconstrained by the usual suppliers.
Farrell will also oversee an Idonesian-style street food spot called Bebek! Bebek! The name — bebek means duck in Indonesian — is a clue: it will revolve around crispy duck and chicken, as served by night market stalls in Java.
JKS have been integral in the development of some of the concepts that will fill the hall. The group has partnered with Feroz Gajia of Stoke Newington hit spot Bake St, for a new opening called Manna. Gajia is best known for his fried chicken and burgers and so it will be at Manna, which is said to be inspired by “diner culture in the USA” and will serve the likes of a jalapeno popper fried chicken bun.
JKS have also partnered with the founders of High Street Kensington’s Yashin Sushi, for Sushi Kamon, which is being described as an elegant sushi bar offering a weekly-changing menu as well as a one hour, £45 omakase experience.
Other attractions will include Arcade Provisions, a sandwich and bakery spot offering bites from James Lowe’s Flor Bakery as well as sandwiches from Margot’s Pride, a sandwich range from the Rochelle Canteen’s Margot Henderson and son Hector. These will be available day and night. There will also be an Arcade Bar serving cocktails and wine. The other Henderson making an apperance is Fergus; his artwork will be included among the decor.
Karam Sethi, Founder of JKS Restaurants said of the opening: “Over the last 15 months we’ve been working to create the 9 new brands that will open at Arcade Food Hall. All the brands share the same hallmarks as our classic JKS brands — they’re fun, accessible, vibrant and serve food that is familiar but original.
“All of the dishes created are unique to Centre Point. We hope to raise the bar in terms of food hall experience in London — where the same attention to detail given to the food is also reflected in our drinks list, the art, music, and entertainment. We hope the versatility of the space ensures that Arcade Food Hall will suit all occasions.”
