Let’s start with the obvious: Martin Lewis, I ain’t. Granted, restaurant writing involves some degree of financial consideration — am I happy with the cost? Would the reader be? — but it’s hardly a science: I might know the mark-up on a wine, but I can’t say whether you care about it. And value isn’t a perception entirely dependent on means: Bernard Arnault wears a priceless Patek Phillipe on his wrist, Bill Gates prefers his £50 Casio.
But would either pay £760 for a steak? That’s the offer at Aragawa, which opened on Mayfair’s Clarges Street in October. It has room for 26, the steak is cooked by ear (yes), and it serves beef that’s never made British shores before.
