
The new spa at the luxury country retreat, Inness, brings Manhattan-calibre wellness to the gentrifying rural hamlet of Accord, New York. Taavo Somer, one of the proprietors, became a cult figure of New York City hospitality decades ago, as kids prowling the dark and lonely streets east of SoHo found his breakout restaurant and bar glowing cosily like a mirage at the dead-end of tiny Freeman Alley. They called the place Freemans, naturally, and city people downtown loved its rustic interiors, with acres of old-fashioned painted panelling and an endless supply of vintage taxidermy specimens on display. Diners could wait hours for a table, though all were ultimately welcome – except, perhaps, the night Taylor Swift celebrated her birthday upstairs.