Gold watches were a key trend at Watches and Wonders 2024, and the return of weighty glimmer resonated with us. Here are our some of our favourites, ranging from divers’ watches to Cartier chic, platinum to rose gold.
5 gold watches for 2024
Rolex Perpetual 1908
The gargantuan gold Rolex Deepsea weighs in at a whopping 320 grams, but what caught our eye was the hypnotically intricate guilloché patterns of the sky-blue Perpetual 1908. With a delightful Breguet hour hand and glittering platinum case, this return to classicism stole the limelight from the beastly Deepsea with its understated, but precious charm.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
The secret’s out – the Vacheron Constantin Overseas range is the curated alternative in the integrated bracelet game. At Watches & Wonders 2024, we got four new references in 18ct 5N pink gold with deep green dials. In steel, the Overseas can be an understated charmer, the in-box choice of an extra rubber strap ensuring its stealth-wealth vibe. But with the lustre of softly brushed pink gold there’s no point in pretending, so we embrace the 35mm version on a full gold bracelet with the Maltese cross bezel set with diamonds.
Cartier Tortue
The Cartier Tortue originally debuted in 1912, a smooth cushion-shaped watch named after the French word for turtle. Introduced at Watches and Wonders this year was a larger-than-normal, almost tool-like crown on a twin-register Monopusher Chronograph. With only 200 pieces being made by Cartier, the understated pebble-smooth elegance will undoubtedly find collector-owners in no time. Silver opaline dials and blued hands complement the radiant cabochon and a blue alligator strap.
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
Appeasing today’s appetite for watches-as-bracelets, the eloquent language of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse is back with a braided gold vengeance. The brand is no stranger to embracing its past, but going all-in on its early 1970s glamour brings a minimal-luxe charm we love. The new rose-gold Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001 remains svelte at 34.5 x 39.5 mm, boasting an ultra-thin self-winding movement in a curvaceous 5.9mm case. It might be inspired by the Golden Ratio, but the chain-link braid of the pink-gold bracelet steals the show.
Tudor Black Bay 58
If you’re all about the juxtaposed glam of a solid gold tool watch but felt the large Rolex Deepsea a bit much, family member Tudor has the answer, three years after launching the pitch-perfect rendition of a late 1950s diver. A rich green dial and bezel are framed by a satin-soft brushed case and bracelet of 18ct yellow gold. The COSC-rated MT5400 movement has the tech specs to back it up, completing a very wearable precious gold retro-nugget of the Watches and Wonders show.
