Akara, London SE1: ‘Modern, playful, imaginative – a dig-in type of dinner’ – restaurant review

Akara, London SE1: ‘The food here is hearty, rather than fancy, and doesn’t stand on ceremony.’ Photograph: Beca B Jones/The Guardian

On the edge of Borough Market, hiding slightly up a back lane and away from the £12 aubergines, the pork chops that come with CVs and the madding foodie crowds clutching their spirulina smoothies, is a new west African restaurant, Akara. Once upon a time, Borough Market was a weekend affair, but now it’s a genteel, organic sort of bedlam every single day. It’s the perfect place to open somewhere like Akara, the second restaurant from Aji Akokomi, who in 2020 opened Akoko, a fine-dining excursion around the owner’s west African heritage that, to my mind, is well worthy of a Michelin star.

Akara’s tiger prawn akara: ‘Best tackled with both hands.’ Photograph: Beca B Jones/The Guardian