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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Steve Rose

‘A yorkshire pudding like a dishcloth’: how did British pub food get so grim?

A microwave roast dinner – chicken, stuffing, roast potatoes, carrots and peas – in a compartmentalised black-plastic container

It was supposed to be a special occasion: an extended family get-together for Sunday lunch at a country pub. The setting was promising: a traditional establishment recently redecorated; outside terrace by the river; plenty of customers. The menu was also promising: a giant sheet of paper like a medieval charter, with glowing descriptions of how they aged their beef and sourced their produce locally.

The food, though, was awful. The starters were assorted deep-fried pellets of unidentifiable organic matter; the meat was cold and colourless, the gravy watery, the roast potatoes soggy and the yorkshire pudding chewy as a dishcloth. It was very difficult to believe all of this had been freshly prepared in the kitchen that day. It felt more like reheated leftovers – for £30 a head.

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