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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Kevin Rushby

A Wessex trail: Dorset’s Hardy Way leads to the historic Smugglers Inn

Chalk figure of a horse and rider carved on a hill near Osmington, Dorset, UK, which was created in 1808 as a tribute to George III.
This chalk figure near Osmington was carved in 1808 as a tribute to George III. All photographs: Nick Dawe Photograph: Nick Dawe

No one appreciated the rural English landscape more than a certain corn merchant’s son from Suffolk. John Constable made it his business to paint bucolic splendour, and perhaps no one has ever done it better. And when he went on holiday, on his honeymoon no less, he chose one particular village.

I’m standing there, by the old, ivy-clad church wall in Osmington, Dorset, surveying the thatched roofs ahead and the rising slope of the chalk hill beyond. Through a gateway I spot a blue plaque on the old vicarage wall: “John Constable, English Romantic Painter, 1816, lived here for three months”.

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