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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Ella Braidwood

A walk across fells to a great pub: the Kirkstile Inn, Lake District

Crummock Water in the rain.
Legends of the fell … Crummock Water looking towards Rannerdale Knotts as rain sweeps in. Unlike Ella Braidwood, our photographer encountered damp, but highly atmospheric weather. All photographs: Mark Waugh Photograph: Mark Waugh

The Kirkstile Inn was first documented in 1549. Then a farm, it was sold by west Cumbria’s St Bees Priory after the dissolution of the monasteries. Today, it’s a pub with low-beamed ceilings and old fireplaces popular both with locals and tourists stopping for a post-walk meal and a pint from its own brewery.

The inn’s pull is impressive, given that the village in which it lies, Loweswater, named after the nearby lake, is home to just a couple of hundred people. Away from the tourist honeypots, the western side of the Lake District is an altogether more peaceful place.

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