Food
Madrileños are a warm, unpretentious bunch, so it makes sense that the city’s signature dish is a simple, hearty bowl of cocido, a stew that generally includes chickpeas, chicken, pork, blood sausage and chorizo. The best are cooked in a broth prepared overnight. At Casa Carola, the elements are served separately, so the vegetables remain al dente, while the meat falls off the bone.
The city’s indoor markets offer lighter, more modern dining. After years of economic decline, these once-dusty spaces have enjoyed a surge in popularity. Now, besides local grocers, fishmongers and butchers, small restaurants serve a younger crowd. Mercado Tirso de Molina, in up-and-coming Puerta del Ángel, is one of the best, offering a range of delights including oysters, vegan paella and migas (a traditional dish of fried breadcrumbs, chorizo and bacon).
Inspiration
Markets are not the only places that have been revived; industrial spaces have also been given a new lease of life as arts centres. My favourite is El Águila, a former brewery in Delícias. Slightly off the beaten track, this art gallery is housed in a wonderful example of early 20th-century neo-mudéjar architecture, a style that pays homage to Spain’s Islamic past. In summer, many of these venues host concerts and open-air film festivals. Matadero and La Casa Encendida both have interesting programmes (book in advance as tickets go quickly).
Neighbourhoods
My favourite barrio is Embajadores. Once on the outskirts of Madrid, it was the ideal location for the city’s slaughterhouse and tanneries. Today it’s still home to the Rastro, an outdoor bazaar with origins in the 15th century, named for the trail of gore that once ran down the hill. Sunday morning here is one of the most dynamic experiences Madrid has to offer. Order a vermouth at a kerbside table and watch the chaos unfold.
Green space
When Madrid was “reconquered” by Alfonso VI in 1083, the formerly Muslim territory was divided up between the church and crown. While the church got valuable farmland, the crown called dibs on any hunting grounds. This meant that a huge swathe of wilderness was preserved right in the city centre. Rising up from the banks of the Manzanares river, just across from the palace, Casa de Campo is now a public space that offers spectacular views of the city.
While you can get here via cable car from the town centre, the best way to explore the Casa da Campo is by electric bicycle. Hire one of the city council’s BiciMAD bikes from outside Príncipe Pío station before heading across the river to explore this rugged wilderness. In addition to its thriving wildlife, you may also catch sight of old bunkers and trenches left behind from the time when Franco’s troops laid siege to the city.
Nightlife
During the pandemic, Madrid gained a dubious reputation as the party town of Europe, with its regional president making the decision to keep bars open. While nightclubs were banned, disco bars flouted the rules and people continued to dance. I particularly like Traveling-Bar Lavapiés, a friendly joint where the drinks are cheap, the popcorn free, and the dancefloor is always jumping.
For a quieter atmosphere, head to Taberna Angosta, on a side street in the historic La Latina district. It has a friendly and cosy atmosphere – and best of all, you can usually find a table out in the sunshine to enjoy a frozen mojito beneath an old palm tree.
Stay
Posadas are old-fashioned inns built along what were once Madrid’s main transport routes. Most of them retain original doorways wide enough to accommodate a stagecoach, as well as the traditional interior patios. My favourite is the Posada del León de Oro (doubles from €89), which, like many other posadas has been converted into a boutique hotel. Of particular interest are the sections of medieval wall that can be seen through a glass floor in the restaurant.
Felicity Hughes is the author of the history blog The Making of Madrid
