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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Adam McCulloch

A Garden of England walk to a great pub: the Samuel Palmer, Kent

A ‘tree tunnel’ crossing a rewilded former golf course near the hamlet of Romney Street, Kent.
A ‘tree tunnel’ crossing a rewilded former golf course near the hamlet of Romney Street, Kent. Photograph: Graeme Robertson/The Guardian

An hour after leaving London Blackfriars, the Thameslink train emerges from a long tunnel into a rural Kentish idyll. As we pass over a Victorian viaduct a bucolic view beckons from the south: a meandering river between wooded chalk hills. Water meadows, poplars and an ancient church tower complete the scene. It’s like a fleeting glimpse of a picture book showing the Garden of England. We have entered the Darent valley, which, despite being on London’s doorstep, offers several secluded walks – and more than a couple of great pubs.

Shoreham is a hub for many hiking routes, but when the train pulls in, a smartly dressed group disembark alongside us, none of them wearing walking boots. They’re heading into the village for stone-baked pizzas and wine at the Mount Vineyard. The vineyard team has also taken over the 15th-century Ye Olde George inn and, after a thorough and tasteful revamp, reintroduced it to the world in April as the Samuel Palmer.

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