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The Independent UK

Marti Buckley

A former military fort is now one of Mallorca’s most stylish five-star hotels

Mallorca Luxury

This stunning 19th-century military fortification on the Bay of Palma offers cinematic views and five-star service

Location

Once the entry gates close behind you at Cap Rocat, the suburban development of Palma is easily forgotten. Situated on 2,000 acres of Cap Enderrocat’s protected land in the Bay of Palma, the hotel feels remote, yet is very close to the city. Palma Mallorca airport is just 15 minutes away by taxi.

Views over the bay are lusciously unobstructed, and while there’s no beach per se, you can bathe on the cliffside in the bay.

The vibe

Have breakfast al fresco at your suite to take advantage of the view (Cap Rocat)

Cap Rocat nails the art of the refuge. This decommissioned military base has centuries-old Mediterranean grandeur in the form of original honey-coloured stone and crenelated towers, yet feels alive and modern thanks to an impeccable renovation by Spanish architect Antonio Obrador.

Theatrical lighting and use of stone and hardwood give the property a sense of timelessness. Relaxation is the name of the game, so flop into the jewel-toned furniture and float lazily in the sky-lit pool.

Service

The impressive service is one of the best things about this hotel. You can tell it’s going to be special from the moment you pull up and are assisted by dedicated “greeters” in flowing white linen. No one blinks an eye at any request, small or large, and everything from the golf cart rides to and from the pool to the impressive breakfast layout add to the sense of luxury.

Bed and bath

A ‘Sentinel’ suite with private plunge pool (Cap Rocat)

The former military quarters and munitions stores have been converted into 24 rooms that are airy and spacious. No matter the category, they offer ample space, especially for the outdoor living that Mallorca is known for. They have a definite bohemian style, thanks to stone arches and floors, and ikat print accessories.

I stayed in a “Cap Rocat Suite” and took full advantage of three levels of terraces, especially the top one with its private daybed pavilion sat atop the wild, windswept cliffs overlooking the sea. Gorgeous. Though if you want to splash out, book a “Sentinel Suite”, truly one-of-a-kind hotel rooms carved out of the rock face with their own private plunge pools.

Rooms are airy and spacious at Cap Rocat (Cap Rocat)

Food and drink

La Fortaleza is Cap Rocat’s main restaurant, offering a tasting menu that takes you on a trip across the island. I predict it is close to earning a Michelin star. The bread service alone (black olive, herbed, and citrus-flavoured sliced at your table) sets the tone. Sobrasada made from Mollorcan Porc Negre pork arrives drizzled with honey from the hotel's own bees. There are also options for vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free guests.

The tasing menu at the main restaurant is full of local flavours (Cap Rocat)

As delicious as dinner is, the breakfast alone is worth the stay. Ask to be served in your room and awake to the most gorgeous spread of pastries, coffee, jams, butter and eggs on your terrace, laid out in a wicker basket and accompanied by beautiful china. Enjoy it al fresco with views of the sea for an unforgettable experience.

Don’t miss a lunch at The Sea Club, the informal cafe tucked into a cove that people flock to from across the island. Tables are arranged on the cliffs, where you can relax over Mallorcan rosé, ice cold tuna tartare, fried calamari, and excellent seco rice.

Facilities

Cap Rocat may be isolated, but the facilities are its strongpoint. The main infinity pool is a great place to hang out, perched on the fortress walls with views over the Bay of Palma, and its own cocktail bar. There's beach access for swimming in the natural reserve, where you can also use the free-to-borrow kayaks, paddleboards, and snorkelling gear. There’s another bar here, too.

The spa has a 25 metre saltwater pool sunk below ground (Cap Rocat)

Cap Rocat's spa, designed by Antonio Obrador, is carved from the limestone depths of the 19th-century fortress. The centrepiece is a 25 metre saltwater pool sunk 12 metres below ground level and flooded with light from a conservatory-style glass ceiling. Five treatment rooms offer signatures like the Cap Rocat Body Peel (using quince, coconut oil and papaya) and a traditional hammam. The relaxation area has large Mallorcan beds divided by curtains, which are ideal for escaping the midday heat.

In the morning, enjoy daily yoga or pilates by the pool. During the day, take advantage of the fabulous itineraries designed by the concierges, ranging from wine tastings to helicopter trips to the Tramuntana mountains. The 24-hour gym is well-equipped, or you can get your exercise at the hotel’s tennis courts.

Live music (guitar or piano) plays in the courtyard from 7pm to 10:30pm nightly.