Since its first day in London's Piccadilly in 2003, The Wolseley has been celebrated for its grand architecture and comforting all-inclusive menu. Not long after, it was harmoniously labelled by locals, A-listers and acclaimed food critics as one of the city's best-loved dining rooms.
But, of course, there must be other, perhaps more relevant, reasons why The Wolseley continues to thrive after two decades. The answer is now right here in Bangkok.
Soft launched a few days ago, Cafe Wolseley Bangkok is a 70-seat pop-up venture that, up until last month, was home to Anantara Siam's Madison steakhouse.
A friend booked us a casual lunch for two on the restaurant's first day of operation.
Given Wolseley's revered authority, I, a stranger also to the UK flagship, was prepared for the possibility of being intimidated by imperious British hospitality.
At the same time, there was a doubt in my mind whether this momentary offshoot, decked out with black and white upholstery and classic charcoal-hued walls to slightly depict the original London mood, could uphold the brand's established glory.
Stepping into the venue, I did not expect my first impression would include heartfelt cordiality, simplicity and, most surprisingly, affordability.
The Wolseley's general manager Fergal Lee, who's been with the brand since opening, greeted his guests in Bangkok with a folksy warmth. Here with him from London was a kitchen crew led by the Wolseley's group executive chef David Stevens to ensure the food was up to the uncompromisingly high standard.
Staying true to its roots and "combining British heritage with European grandeur", the 50-item menu is Wolseley's iconic selection of quintessential cafe classics from across the continent.
Even first-timers would find the menu comforting and easy to understand. There is no fancy food jargon or vague culinary narrative, just trustworthy descriptions of timeless European dishes like double-cooked Swiss cheese souffle, chopped chicken salad with tarragon vinaigrette, Hungarian beef goulash and spaetzle, wiener schnitzel with fried egg and anchovies and char-grilled rib-eye steak with fries.
Our meal was built on a heritage beetroot salad (450 baht); prawn and avocado cocktail (580 baht); roast Anjou chicken with morels (1,700 baht); pork schnitzel (800 baht); and baked vanilla cheesecake (330 baht).
Comparing the prices to portions of the food, one could quickly label Wolseley as generous.
The very delicious prawn cocktail featured sliced firm meat of large tiger prawns on a bed of avocado and shredded iceberg lettuce seasoned with Marie Rose sauce and lemon gel.
The beetroot salad, one of the most delightful renditions I've ever eaten, featured tender chunks of roasted candied beetroot, golden and red, that came tossed with mildly-tasting French goat cheese, fresh salad mâche leaves and French fines herbes dressing.
For my fellow Thai diners, the cafe's roast chicken may be best enjoyed by sharing. Half a roasted French chicken, impeccably boasting flavourful and juicily tender meat, was served with pan-fried potato and sage rosti, a helping of sauteed spinach and a rich and tasty morel cream sauce.
We ordered the schnitzel not because we still had room in our stomachs, but rather because it was a dish we could not miss.
The expansive, deep-fried pork escalope with lingonberry compote and lemon proved to live up to its fame. The simply-looking dish showcased a golden crispy panko-crumb crust that flawlessly enhanced the succulent meat inside. A very addictive sweet pickled cucumber salad (190 baht) is highly recommended as an additional side to the dish.
There are eight options for sweets on the menu. Order the heavenly vanilla cheesecake no matter what. The rich and silky soft New York-style cheesecake with a fine buttery crust was sworn by many as the planet's best, with which I agree.
I left the Wolseley hoping the pop-up affair would become permanent. On top of the brand's legacy and kitchen excellence, there's gastronomic comfort I believe I can always rely on.
Cafe Wolseley Bangkok opens for lunch (Mon-Sat) and dinner (Mon-Sun). A Prix Fixe menu is also available at 750 baht for a two-course meal and 1,100 baht for a three-course meal.
