A Braccetto, London: ‘It does its thing well at a good price’ – restaurant review

Still standing: chefs Daniele and Francesco. The first Spaghetti House was opened on Goodge Street in 1955, and the group is still owned by the same family. Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observer

A Braccetto, 242 Earls Court Road, London SW5 9AA (a-braccetto.com). Antipasti £7.95, mains £14.95-£26.50, desserts £7.35, wines from £35 a bottle

There are sights in London that are so familiar they now go largely unremarked, despite how deserving of comment they are: the sleek, well-fed mice which skitter between the tracks in tube stations; the over-lit shops stocked with bags of American confectionary, which seem never to attract a customer (but have now attracted the attentions of the Revenue); the branch of sturdy hardware mongers Robert Dyas, which trades amid the fancy hotels and glossy theatres along St Martin’s Lane, there for all your emergency duct tape needs.