“It’s been a challenge to plan for this,” said Cecilie Thorsmark, Copenhagen Fashion Week CEO, in her opening remarks on the first day of the Danish capital’s biannual fashion event.
And certainly, Copenhagen Fashion Week Autumn/ Winter 2022 felt a little different than the SS22 event, which last summer had burst to life with a packed schedule of mask-free runway shows and a confident back-to-normal feel.
This season, Denmark had been in national lockdown right up until the day before editors, buyers and influencers descended on the city. And while masks were, as of Tuesday morning, no longer mandatory and restaurants were freed from curfews; this week’s event had a slightly more hesitant feel.
“Not only is it the first day of Copenhagen Fashion Week, but it is also the first day in a very long time that things are back to normal in Denmark,” continued Thorsmark. She did not confirm whether the Danish government had purposefully timed the lifting of its lockdown to accommodate the economy-enhancing fashion week, but it seems likely to be more than coincidence.
The number of brands that held in-person shows this week was reduced to 20 from last season’s impressive 38. Big names like Brogger, Rotate, Remain Birger Christensen and Ganni were much missed, with the latter among a list of 10 brands that chose to show only digitally.
An upside of splashier names being absent was that some rising stars were able to command attention and draw serious crowds. Cool-kid streetwear label d(i)vision — which debuted only last season and forwent professional models for friends of the designer, who stomped the runway to whoops and cheers from an equally friend-heavy FROW — was among the buzziest shows. Nascent sustainable labels Kerne Milk and A Roege Hove drew attention from press and buyers for their hyper-eco approaches to design.
Among those that did show, the collections ranged from exciting and experimental through to safer, more commercial offerings. There was generally a lot less of the brightly coloured floral prints for which Copenhagen’s become known, and a move to big bold colour and unapologetically oversized silhouettes – whether that was giant puffers falling off shoulders, bags big enough to carry a small child or jumbo floor-skimming scarves.
Copenhagen has, like so many European cities, been through the ringer, but if this week’s shows are anything to go by, autumn 2022’s Scandi fashion is going to be a bolder and more grown up than ever.
1. Bangin’ balaclavas
They appeared, tentatively, on the heads of the most experimentally dressed of the street style set last season and in Copenhagen this week there was no two ways about it: balaclavas are the new beanies. Woolly versions were seen at Baum und Pferdgarten, Samsoe Samsoe and Day Birger et Mikkelsen, while Soulland did floral mesh tops with inbuilt head coverings and d(i)vision served up a scuba-style take on the trend. Several show attendees rocked bonnets and balaclavas - and looked extra smug amid the Danish capitals snowy conditions.
2. Siren red
Punchy apple green (or Bottega green as some call it) has been reigning supreme in the colour charts for several seasons now, and while there was still plenty of the very vert hue kicking about on the runways (and the pavements) this week, the AW22 shows decreed siren red to be throwing shade for autumn ’22. Full head-to-toe vermillion looks were seen at Rabens Saloner, Fassbender, Soulland and Day Birger et Mikkelsen. It felt particularly punchy at Baum und Pferdgarten, where pillarbox red puffer jackets were worn over identically hued polo necks and tights. “It is a completely new colour for us which we haven’t worked with for many seasons,” said Baum’s co-creative director Rikke Baumgarten. “Now it’s back – and we will explore this colour for the coming seasons in various ways.”
3. Crazy lady layers
When it came to styling, several designers agreed on a more is more approach, layering unexpected items on top of one another with convention-eschewing abandon. At Baum, delicate sheer sequinned dresses were worn over logo bodysuits and under heavy winter coats while at Holzweiler a smart leather midi skirt was styled over a floor skimming jersey dress with moon boots. “It’s about getting people to feel confident about themselves and dare to dress individually,” said Stine Goya, who styled floral puffer jackets over green zebra print knee-length jumpers and hiking boots. It’s been a while since you got to wear your cool clothes… who says you can’t wear them all at once?
4. Supersized scarves
If you buy one thing next winter, make it an absolutely enormous scarf. Seen at Holzweiler, Malene Birger, Samsoe Samsoe and Skall, the giant knit scarf will give your outfit an instant update come winter ’22. The Bottega fringed scarf was also a particularly popular choice among the street style set. The best way to wear them? Thrown nonchalantly over one shoulder and gently grazing the floor.
5. Real world casting
If reflecting real-world bodies, ages, races and sizes was a trend that tentatively emerged at Paris Couture last week, it’s already become brilliantly the normcore on the runways in Copenhagen. From older models to plus size (and every body shape and size in between), to a truly diverse mix of skin tones and looks, Copenhagen’s designers appear to have decided the best way to sell their clothes is to put them on bodies that are representative of society and their customers. Among the strongest line ups was Saks Potts, who had model Erin Wasson open a show that featured older and bigger bodied women. “It feels quite natural for us have a diverse cast as we always invite girls from our community around the world walk our shows,” said co-founder Barbara Potts, who even cast their Saks Potts sales manager in the show.
6. Cargo pants
Nineties cargo pants have been having a moment this winter, and for AW22 they are set to continue to fill a utilitarian hole in our wardrobes, with everyone from Gestuz to Samsoe Samsoe offering takes on the troos. “We love the aesthetic of cargo pants that originates from classic workwear featuring several utility pockets for carrying tools,” says Saks Potts co-founder Barbara Potts, who did a luxurious version in soft baby blue and grey suede. “We love the combination of the sophisticated material and practical design. It’s the best of both worlds.”
7. Throw-on-and-go dresses
While there was plenty of fun and fabulousness on show, several designers produced pared-back, easy-to-wear collections that one suspects spoke to a need for a post-covid sales boost. The best pieces in these collections were long-sleeved, easy breezy dresses that are just the sort of thing people want to throw on before a day in the office – and will thus no doubt fly off the shelves.
