Watches & Wonders (what used to be Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, SIHH), the largest watch-making summit in Geneva, is underway. Though the overall number of visitors to this luxury watch fair is much lower this year — no attendance from China, Hong Kong and many other Asian countries, as well as Russia — there is a palpable excitement among those attending. There are 38 brands and it isn’t just watch nerds who are hailing the participation of Baselworld’s Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Tudor, Chanel, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Zenith, Chanel, Grand Seiko and Oris. For watch journalists familiar with Baselworld and SIHH over the years, it’s like getting a taste of both under one roof. Brands like Rolex and Ulysse Nardin are pulling out all the stops with their showcase — the latter has roped in a shark sculpture, no less. Cartier has brought back one of its rarest tanks: the Chinoise. TAG Heuer has its most expensive watch to date, the Carrera Plasma, with about 12 kt of lab-grown diamonds. After a quick walk through the brand booths over the past two days, here are my top seven from the fair.
Cartier Masse Mystérieuse
The mystery dial is back. Cartier’s expertise with in-house complicated movements has been steadily rising. Masse Mystérieuse is a spectacular watch that beats to the rhythm of an original movement, the in-house 9801 MC. The magic of a mobile calibre is condensed into a semicircle, and transformed into a skeletonised oscillating weight. With the turn of the wrist, the entire movement repositions itself. The 43.5mm 950 platinum case is elegant with the traditional crown topped with a dramatic ruby cabochon. The sapphire disk in the dial reveals the movement design and connects the movement to the crown through a hidden set of gears. CHF 250,000 (approx)
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
Grand Seiko Kodo (heartbeat in Japanese) Constant-force Tourbillon, the brand’s first mechanical complication watch, houses a unique movement that delivers stable accuracy. It combines a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism on a single axis for the very first time in horological history. Grand Seiko had first presented the concept in 2020, that included the patented movement 9ST1. Not only is Caliber 9ST1, comprising 340 components, smaller than its concept predecessor but its high accuracy remains stable for long thanks to the constant-force mechanism. The constant-force carriage has a ruby on one of its arms, which acts as a small seconds hand. The watch incorporates a hacking function so that the rotating tourbillon carriage can be stopped when the crown is pulled out, allowing the time to be changed to the second. In addition, Kodo offers 100m water resistance and will be available as a limited edition of 20. $350,000
Montblanc1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290
Montblanc has removed the oxygen from its latest mountaineering timepiece for its brand friend Nimsdai Purja to test on his upcoming expedition to the summit of Mount Everest. Dedicated to making professional timing instruments for today’s explorers, the 1858 Geosphere watch sees the addition of a brand-new chronograph movement, devoid of all oxygen. This “Zero Oxygen” timepiece, limited to 290 pieces, has several benefits for explorers who need their equipment to work in some of the harshest environments. Zero oxygen inside the movement not only eliminates fogging at altitude, but also prevents oxidisation. In addition, each timepiece undergoes the Maison’s unforgiving 500-hour test. €8,000
Armin Strom Orbit
Armin Strom is an independent small brand with a big heart. The Orbit reinvents the most ubiquitous horological function with the world's first date function displayed on a bezel that can be seen on demand. The date is driven by the unique column-wheel date complication, that can be activated and deactivated with the push of a button. A large central hand with a red “A” tip for Armin indicates the date on the black ceramic bezel, which makes up the sporty look of the watch. The skeletonised execution and asymmetrical dial layout add to the uniqueness of the Orbit. CHF 29,500
Panerai QuarantaQuattro eSteel™
Panerai’s connection with the Royal Italian Navy and dive watches is once again highlighted with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel™. In the recent past, the brand has been checking their sustainability goals and this includes reducing waste and promoting reuse of materials. About 52% of the total weight (137g) of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel™ is made of recycled materials. The high gloss surface on the unidirectional bezel is the first of its kind in Panerai history. Another standout element? The polished dial with gradient effect.
Rolex Yacht-Master 40
Rolex hardly creates completely new products but always adds value to the existing lines by adding technology to the movement or enhancing metal quality. The new Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 is flashier - created from 18 ct white gold for the first time, it has a rotatable bezel set with precious stones that echo the aurora borealis and the glow of dawn, as well as diamonds, which also adorn the lugs and crown guard.
Hublot Square Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic
Hublot unveils its own interpretation of the square watch, a totally new geometry for the watchmaker. There is the sandwich construction of its dial, which gives it different levels of depth and a highly architectural feel. As with the Big Bang, the Square Bang Unico’s dial makes extensive use of sapphire to give a clear view of the in-house Unico movement. The Square Bang uses the same materials as its predecessor, including titanium, ceramic and King Gold, not to mention the famous ‘All Black’ finish. A new strap decorated with ‘chocolate squares’ further emphasises the Square Bang’s identity. ₹34,35,000
The writer is the founder and president of The Horologists.
