We hear lots of talk about a damaged skin barrier, but how can you actually tell whether your complexion falls into this category?
It's not unusual to experience a handful of unexplained skin concerns and be totally unaware that a damaged skin barrier is the cause of it all. And if you're unaware that you have a damaged skin barrier, you might be sabotaging your skincare routine by using products that worsen the damage.
So, with this question in mind (plus many more), we decided to quiz five top dermatologists for their expert advice, including signs to look out for that point to damaged skin barrier, ingredients you should be avoiding and how to repair a compromised complexion – including the best gentle cleansers and best facial moisturisers with skin-loving formulas.
Dermatologists reveal the warning signs of a damaged skin barrier
The skin barrier is the outer layer of the complexion that plays a vital role in the healthy function of your skin. However, the likes of over-exfoliation, products with harsh active ingredients and environmental stressors (such as pollution and cold weather) can all contribute to weakening and damaging the skin barrier.
If the following signs feel all too relatable to you, you might need to strip back your skincare routine and invest in a few strengthening and reparative formulas. So, without further ado, find three of our team's tried and tested gentle, barrier-repairing buys...
RRP: £19.90
We've never met a Beauty Editor who doesn't rave about this product. It's one of those multipurpose formulas that's worth keeping stocked in your skincare arsenal at all times, especially if you find yourself with a damaged skin barrier. The versatile balm is infused with skin-soothing active ingredients that are designed to hydrate, protect and repair even the most sensitive skin.
RRP: £17
Powered by Byoma's proprietary barrier complex of ectoin, avocado oil and squalane, this rich leave-on treatment works to intensely hydrate and relieve irritated and dry skin. Not to mention, its tri-ceramide complex helps to support skin barrier health, working to calm redness and inflammation and replenish the complexion.
RRP: £27.50 for 1L
If you're working with a weakened skin barrier, it's important that you opt for a gentle cleanser that isn't going to strip your skin of its moisture. That's where Cetaphil's Gentle Skin Cleanser comes into play. Suitable for all skin types, this multi-action formula washes away dirt, grime and impurities, while utilising hero skincare ingredients, such as glycerin, niacinamide and panthenol, to leave the skin feeling hydrated.
What are the most common signs of a damaged skin barrier?
When it comes to detecting a damaged skin barrier, there are a handful of common signs that are worth keeping an eye out for. As Dr Magnus Lynch, Consultant Dermatologist, explains: "Signs of an impaired barrier include dryness, redness, irritation, stinging, burning or skin sensitivity."
Additionally, it's worth noting how your go-to skincare products are feeling when you apply them. Dr Emma Goulding, Founder of Dr Emma Goulding Aesthetics, says: "Another very common sign is that products you’ve used comfortably for years begin to sting or burn. When the barrier is weakened, the skin loses moisture more easily and becomes much more reactive to both skincare and environmental stress.”
The appearance of your complexion may also differ, as Dr Nora Jaafar, Dermatological and Aesthetic Doctor, notes: "The skin may also appear dull, flaky or more prone to breakouts because the barrier is no longer effectively protecting against irritants and bacteria."
To summarise, these are the most common signs that the experts say to look out for...
- Dryness
- Redness
- Irritation
- Stinging, burning or skin sensitivity to products you've used for years
- Dullness
- Flaking
- More prone to breakouts
What causes a damaged skin barrier?
So, what actually causes a damaged skin barrier? Well, as explained by Dr Emma Goulding, there's a few reasons behind a weakened epidermis: "In many cases it comes down to well-intentioned but excessive skincare. Layering too many active ingredients - particularly exfoliating acids, retinoids and vitamin C - can gradually disrupt the skin’s lipid barrier."
It's also important to carefully consider which cleanser you're using in your routine, as Dr Nora Jaafar adds: "Over-cleansing or using too many products at once can also disrupt the barrier’s natural lipid structure."
Dr Emma Goulding also notes: "Environmental factors such as pollution, cold weather and UV exposure can worsen the situation, but quite often the issue simply starts because the skin has been pushed beyond what it can comfortably tolerate.”
Is it possible to repair?
If the signs of a damaged skin barrier are feeling all too relatable, there's no need to panic as you'll be pleased to know that it is possible to repair your complexion. In fact, Dr. Asima Nasir, Medical Director Orskin Aesthetics, explains: “Fortunately, the skin barrier is quite resilient and can repair itself when given the right conditions."
As for the best way to approach this, Dr. Nasir advises: "The most effective approach is usually to simplify your routine and focus on hydration, barrier support and calming ingredients. Once inflammation settles and moisture levels improve, the skin is often able to rebuild its protective function quite effectively.”
How long does it take to fix?
As noted by Dr Sreedhar Krishna, Consultant Dermatologist: "Milder cases may improve within one to two weeks." However, if you've experienced persistent inflammation or more significant damage, Dr Nora Jaafar explains that the repair time will be slightly longer: "More significant damage may take three to six weeks, as this roughly aligns with the skin’s natural renewal cycle."
Either way, Dr. Asima Nasir advises: “Consistency is key – the skin needs a period of calm in order to restore its natural balance and rebuild its protective lipid layer.”
What ingredients should you avoid?
Once you've identified a damaged skin barrier, there are a number of ingredients and products that you should temporarily avoid using to prevent causing further irritation and delay the recovery process. “During this time, it’s best to pause strong exfoliating acids such as glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid, high-strength retinoids and heavily fragranced products. Alcohol-based toners and abrasive scrubs can also worsen irritation," says Dr. Asima Nasir.
In agreement, Dr Sreedhar Krishna adds: "It is sensible to temporarily stop stronger actives such as retinoids, exfoliating acids, and physical scrubs. Fragrance-heavy products and very foaming cleansers can also aggravate already sensitive skin."
However, this doesn't mean cut the products out of your routine forever, Dr Nasir explains: "Once the skin stops stinging, redness settles and hydration improves, active ingredients can be reintroduced slowly – ideally one product at a time and only once or twice a week to begin with.”
What's the best way to repair it?
If you're wondering where to start with your new barrier-strengthening routine, thankfully, the experts weigh in on their advised step-by-step regimes. To begin, Dr. Asima Nasir suggests: “The best strategy is to simplify the routine and prioritise barrier-supportive ingredients. Start with a gentle, non-stripping cleanser, followed by a moisturiser containing ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, which help rebuild the skin’s lipid layer."
Gentle hydration is also key, as Dr Nora Jaafar explains: "Hydrating ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid and panthenol can also help restore moisture while the skin barrier recovers." Not to mention, the importance of using a sunscreen every day, Dr Magnus Lynch says: "It is important to use a broad-spectrum SPF every day, of course, but especially whilst the skin is healing."
