Jade Cropper, A. Roge Hove, (di)vision
(Picture: Imaxtree)Over the years, Copenhagen Fashion Week has become known as one of the best fashion weeks at which to unearth new talent, and the AW22 shows that took place last week were no exception.
Several of the cities bigger names, from Rotate to Ganni, chose to skip the catwalk this season in favour of Covid-friendly digital releases, which was actually a bonus for several smaller brands which enjoyed greater attention from press and buyers as a result.
While their predecessors – the likes of Stine Goya, Brogger and Baum und Pfergarten – found fame with florals, femininity and unabashed use of candy colour, the brands making waves this season were doing so with an altogether grungier vibe that leaned heavily into sustainability, upcycling and the TikTok-approved Y2K aesthetic.
These are the three hot new names to know
(Di)vision
No list of hot new Nordic names would be complete without mention of (di)vision, a label that works entirely with deadstock and pre-existing materials founded by Copenhagen-based cool kid siblings Nanna and Simon Wick in 2018. “Often when brands are working with upcyling and reconstructing, it comes at a very high price. We thought, how can we do this, and still work with more affordable prices for a younger generation,” says Simon.
They launched with a single item, a split material bomber jacket with a zipper down the back that quickly shot to cult status, and is now a permanent item in the range which they’ve reworked in 16 different colourways. “We hope when people see a zipper in the back of a piece of clothing they resonate it with (di)vision,” says Simon, explaining that working with deadstock fabric means all colourways are limited runs of 1/5 to 1/200.
The vibe is grungy streetwear and the AW22 show (their second at Copenhagen Fashion Week) went big on a Nirvana-style aesthetic of baggy jeans, checked overshirts and ultra-cropped t-shirts, all of which hit the runway on the backs of their friends, family and partners. “We want everyone that supports us to feel like a part of a big family,” says Simon, who even cast one of their best customers in the show.
Is it difficult building a business with your sibling? “Working with your sibling is the best thing ever,” enthuses Nanna. “Sure, it can be pretty challenging at times... We’ve found that you have to be completely honest with each other. So we are. And I think this kind of closeness is a true blessing when building a business. Being able to introduce an idea with no filter and talk from the heart is priceless.”
With their first flagship opening in Copenhagen in March, newly-launched NFT pieces and an SS23 collection in the pipeline, (di)vision has a busy 2022 in store.
Jade Cropper
With a single Instagram post, the Kardashians have the power to put a young brand on the map. When Kim Kardashian buys 19 out of 22 pieces of your second ever collection, you become a brand to know overnight. “It really opened doors for me in new markets, and it was definitely a boost for my self-confidence,” says Swedish Designer Jade Cropper, who started her brand in 2020 and was given the prestigious talent slot on last week’s Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule. “I’m hoping it wasn’t the last time!”
Cropper, who crafts her pieces from waste and recycled material, hand makes every single piece herself in her studio in Stockholm. Her show was a buzzy Y2K and motocross-inspired affair bursting with bum-flashing leg slits, asymmetrical necklines and lots of leather. “My grandmother is a big source of inspiration in everything I do,” says the designer. “I want my clothes to make you feel strong, empowering, and confident, just like she was.”
A. Røge Hove
Amalie Røge Hove makes incredibly sexy knitwear. After gaining a masters in textile design from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and then working for years as a knitwear designer for Danish brands Cecilie Bahnsen and Mark Tan, Røge, Hove launched her eponymous knitwear label in 2019. ”Working for other designers taught me so many things about knitwear... and made me experiment and work with the material in different ways than my own,” says Røge Hove, who makes all her pieces on domestic knitting machines in Copenhagen in a process that is virtually waste-free.
“We believe that the fashion of tomorrow needs to focus on their strengths and therefore we create two collections yearly and they only cover the categories we truly believe in,” she continues. By playing with dimensions, contrasting colours, keyhole cutouts and transparency, Røge Hove creates super sensual fine knits that cling to and celebrate all different body types. Her most popular style is a figure-hugging string-closure cardigan, which she’s made in several colours and a longer version too. “it is definitely a key silhouette,” says Røge Hove.
Ultimately, the Danish designer is on a mission to “challenge our perception of knitwear and push our expectations of the material and its behaviour. It’s an ancient craft and yet I believe it still holds so many undiscovered possibilities.”
