It’s 6pm in Herne Hill, south-east London, and I’ve popped out for some Caribbean food wearing fancy athleisure wear. Yoga trousers and a smart hoodie, but PE kit nonetheless. And, once I arrive at 2210 By Natty Can Cook, I realise I am severely underdressed.
When chef Nathaniel Mortley announced that he was opening a restaurant that aimed to celebrate Caribbean culture “in style” and to win a Michelin star, his loyal Instagram following, as well as their families and friends, took the brief and dressed accordingly. As fancily plated ackee and saltfish spring rolls passed by, as well as a lot of rum punch, I rustled in my handbag for some bigger earrings and more makeup. “This isn’t dinner, it’s an occasion!” I hissed at Charles when he asked why I was off to the loo to put on some lippy, leaving him with a menu filled with the likes of confit pork belly with scotch bonnet mayo, lobster rasta pasta and carrot and plantain bhajis. By the time I got back, a plate of thin, crisp roti with a highly addictive scotch bonnet butter dip had appeared. One shouldn’t drink butter, but in this instance it’s excusable.
