In the matter of restaurants, it is always better to travel hopefully, and in 2024 my optimism was richly rewarded. The very first review of the year found me in Guildford at Gordo’s, a comfortable canteen of a place hung with gashes of colour. There chef Rafael Onate and his family were showing the locals an exceedingly good time courtesy of fabulous tacos, chimichangas, quesadillas and slowly turning skewers of pork al pastor, kept in place by roasting pineapple. The instinct to cheerlead may be strong, but there is no point pretending. This year has been a difficult one for the restaurant business. Reports of closures piled up in the “news bites” that appear online below this column, like so much hurricane debris. And yet what’s striking is the way superb small restaurants, like Gordo’s, offering something specific, will be supported by the locals if the quality is there.
In Aberystwyth in May it was at Arabic Flavour where I got to tell the story of Ghofran Hamza, a gifted cook still in her 20s, who grew up in Syria, but who was forced to flee with her family by the chaos of war, eventually landing on the west coast of Wales. Dishes like tabbouleh and hummus, falafel and baba ghanoush, might have sounded familiar, but each carried the fat thumb print of a personal and distinctive story. I just hope she managed to find a few extra hands to help her out in the kitchen. In Stoke in September, it was at Little Dumpling King, where chef Rob McIntrye channelled his love of huge, banging flavours into a menu of raucous, mostly Japanese-inspired small plates. His pearly skinned haggis dumplings, swamped in crispy chilli oil, weren’t subtle. But by god, they were delicious. His salt sprinkled deep-fried Mars bar wasn’t bad either.
