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T3
T3
Technology
Sam Cross

Zenith's new dress watch has two maker's names on the dial – here's why

Zenith x Naoya Hida and Co G.F.J.

Quick Summary

Zenith just launched a new collection of very limited dress watches.

Just ten will be made, in collaboration with a very exclusive, niche watchmaker.

No, you're not looking at a misprint – the new Zenith G.F.J. model really does have a second manufacturers name on the dial. It's part of the new double-signed program, which is going to see different manufacturers working with Zenith to put their spin on the iconic dress watch.

It's not a new concept, either. Back in the day, double-signed watches marked a shared vision and a coming together of interests for two brands – a notion which has made them very collectible among certain horological enthusiasts.

For its first release under this banner, Zenith has partnered with Naoya Hida and Co. – a Tokyo-based outfit which specialises in fusing skilled craftsmanship with modern microfabrication processing. The result is a highly sought-after and very limited collection of watches, with a real 'if you know, you know' aura.

This model is presented within a 39mm platinum case, with a dial crafted from solid silver. That features hour and minute hands on the central pinion, with a small seconds register at six o'clock.

The two names, as well as all of the other indications on the dial, are hand engraved and filled with a blue Japanese urushi lacquer. That creates a lovely contrast with the pale dial, as well as offering a nod to Zenith's house colour.

Inside, the Calibre 135 movement can be found. That's a manually-wound calibre, and features a Breguet hairspring, beating at 2.5Hz to offer 72 hours of power reserve.

The piece is incredibly limited, with just ten models being made. With that in mind, the CHF 58,900 (approx. £56,000 / €64,700 / US$75,400 / AU$104,900) actually feels more reasonable than I'd anticipated.

Personally, I think this may even appeal more to fans of Naoya Hida – who's books for 2026 are already closed – than those of Zenith, giving them another rare chance to grab a watch with the brand's name on it. If you don't happen to find yourself snagging one of these, it's worth keeping an eye out, as the program should see more, similar collaborative efforts in the future.

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