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London Fashion Week, celebrating its 40th anniversary this year with all the frills, froth and fizz you might have expected, has come to a close after five days of far flung locations, A-list faces and plenty of new clothes. Anniversary proceedings began in February’s LFW, but since then the landscape — which was already brutal for many independent businesses, — has only deteriorated. MatchesFashion, the stockist and lifeline to many of London’s best stars, went under, and pulling a show together for this spring/summer 2025 season was a tough ask for all.
Despite a handful of favourites that were missed (Molly Goddard, Conner Ives and Dilara Fındıkoğlu passed; David Koma dropped off the schedule nearing show day) the mood amongst the troops was one of resilience. “We won’t be overlooked or ignored in London,” Harris Reed said after his LFW opening show on Thursday. Those that followed him joined a rallying cry.
Adding to a feeling of hope, British Fashion Council chief executive Caroline Rush said that the Labour Government seem more committed to helping than the previous occupants of No 10. The BFC hosted a Downing Street party yesterday, where Rush promised to “introduce the sector’s priorities to the new Government”. It followed Sir Keir Starmer’s wife, Victoria, making her front row debut at Edeline Lee earlier that day. So, London continues to fight on — as it has done for four decades. Here is everything you might have missed:
Tinsel knits are it
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Sparkly jumpers? Not just for the work Christmas party. So says Simone Rocha, the Irish designer who took over the Old Bailey courthouse for an enchanting collection on Sunday. Rosewood pink and black tinsel sweaters were paired with matching hot pants, knee high embellished tight-socks and Rocha’s high-heeled Crocs (a collaboration which debuted in April this year). Tove, the 2019-founded label by Camille Perry and Holly Wright, also backed some shimmer on top during their more paired-back show at Senate House for smart, sensible dressers. A gold diamanté top was dressed down with a cream crinkle midi-skirt and sandals.
Public school chic returns
Fees might be up for private schools, but all the extra eyes on Eton appear to have rubbed off on a number of moodboards this season. One (more on the nose interpretation) came from Kent&Curwen, which has been relaunched under the direction of Daniel Kearns this season. Titled School, it opened with a string of uniforms (ties, blazers, even leavers day style shirts printed with the scribbles of old friends). There were notes, too, at S.S Daley, where floor length, checked skirts were Marlborough College-esque. Some of the best tailored formalwear came from Erdem, though, who worked with Sextons of Savile Row to make suits that paid homage to the gender defying lesbian 1928 novel The Well of Loneliness by Radclyffe Hall.
Funny little bags catch eyes
Quirky clutches made for light relief — and these instant ice-breakers are a best friend at parties. This season’s best included pink and black ducks which you could grip with one fist, while JW Anderson doubled down on his “loafer bag” (bag with the detailing of a loafer, of course) which he first showed in June. Chopova Lowena, the cool-girl It-brand known for its carabiner kilts, topped them all with white leather bags made in collaboration with Hellmann’s mayonnaise. Yes, they came complete with harnesses for mayo jars and spoons.
Put the heels down
The smartest shoes — on the catwalk and street style set alike — were all flat, so the message was clear: keep your heels in their dust bags. Highlights came from Erdem, eye-catching metallic black and silver loafers with a great big tassel on their tops, and Simone Rocha, who made the case for the continuation of the ballet flat trend by sending out rubber soled styles with fabulous dramatic tutus. Roksanda, who recently launched a collaboration with FitFlop, worked with the brand again to make shocking-shade, fluffy thong sandals. And at JW Anderson, plenty of fuss was made around his new boot concept: a bending ankle boot which droops at the front, “falling askew on the ankles”.
The bermuda short lives on
While the last few months could well be coined summer of the jorts, there was a push away from the scruffy short look towards ever-so-dapper Bermuda short suits. Emilia Wickstead made their case in all-white. Perhaps most charming were S.S.Daley’s, however, with their white lace detailing, paired with a dog-print knitted jumper or with a white shirt with its collar upturned. Very Hamptons.
It was Debra Shaw’s season
LFW has hit its 40th and some faces have stayed the same. Debra Shaw, the Nineties model best known for her turns in Alexander McQueen’s runways, made a big splash this season. She walked for Tove and closed Ahluwalia’s show (pictured lead image), which took place in the Church House next to Westminster Abbey, in an iridescent, orange printed midi and a pearl harness made in collaboration with Pandora. “She’s iconic — when I grew up looking at fashion magazine’s at home it was always her,” designer Priya Ahluwalia said. Other stand-out model moments included Edie Campbell opening 16Arlington’s collection, and Alex Consani — the US model who is the first trans woman to be nominated for Model of the Year at December’s Fashion Awards — walking for Simone Rocha.
Few gongs for body diversity
There were a couple of confidence-boosting moments of body diversity on the catwalk — led by Brazilian designer Karoline Vitto as well as Chopova Lowena, whose casting by Sarah Small was not only size-inclusive, but also represented huge range in age. Chatter amongst editors after many of the shows revolved around those who had reverted back to earlier beauty standards for models. Along with some bigger houses, guilty culprits also included upcomers, some whom had their first standalone shows this season.
The frow politics were on fire
It was clear that SS25 was going to be a vintage season for celebrity spotting as early as midday Friday, as a popstar-sized gap next to Dame Anna Wintour at S.S.Daley was filled by one Harry Styles. Rocking a mod-trim, navy Daley suit and some scruffy plimsole trainers, he giggled merrily with Vogue’s editor-in-chief who sported a Kamala Harris scarf to the catwalk at the Royal Academy of Arts. Styles also bought a minority stake of his business this January.
Who can top that, everyone wondered… Well, Edeline Lee gave it her best shot first thing Monday as Victoria Starmer arrived in polka-dotted glory to support her.
