It’s almost certainly as close as I’ll ever get to walking on the moon.
Surrounded by giant sandstone-coloured volcanic rock formations, we could be on the set of Star Wars or Planet Of The Apes.
It’s not how I pictured my weekend getaway in Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands.
But it turns out there’s much more on offer here than winter sun. Stunning views, history and some geology accompany the poolside cocktails I enjoy during my short stay.
We’ve been walking – or moderately hiking – for around half an hour, the landscape changing as we go.
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From the dark basalt formed from the lava of past volcanic eruptions, to the huge beige-coloured rock left behind after the ash clouds, the San Blas Environmental Reserve has us all wide-eyed.
While it feels a world away from our leisurely breakfast of Spanish omelette and fruit juice that morning, the beauty of the five-star Barceló Tenerife hotel is that it’s built within this otherworldly nature reserve.
The hotel’s terracotta walls and open-plan walkways winding between rooms and restaurants fit the aesthetic perfectly, meaning we move from leisurely luxury to the rugged remnants of the island’s volcanic formation very easily.
“That, right there, is our Buckingham Palace,” our guide Arturo tells me. A local to the island, he points to Mount Teide in the distance – a volcano which last erupted in 1909, it now stands grandly overlooking the resort and nature park.
At more than 3,000 metres high, it is the third tallest volcano in the world and looks mystical as its peak juts up into the clouds on this slightly overcast morning.
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We sadly don’t have time to make the trek to the top during our stay but Arturo suggests the cable car is the best bet if I make a return trip, warning me the trek up the mountain is “tough”.
The walk in the 500,000 square metres of protected space which makes up San Blas is much more accessible – a good pair of trainers, a hat and plenty of suncream and we’re off.
The dry, brown ground is dotted with cacti including the thick-stemmed cardon.
A small dent made with someone’s nail in a branch of the tabaiba shrub leads to a milky substance dripping out. Sticky to the touch, this thick sap is stored to help the plants survive the searing heat which even on this winter day is in the mid 20s.
Soon, the plants clear as we emerge into what can only be described as a lunar landscape with imposingly steep cliffs of yellow-beige rockface surrounding us, forming a canyon sculpted by Tenerife’s well-known winds over hundreds of thousands of years.
Further ahead, a small reservoir surprises us, with lush foliage and palm trees along its sides. Arturo pulls a long rope to bring us across the water on a small wooden boat, where we explore more historical caves previously occupied by the Guanches – the indigenous inhabitants of Tenerife.
In the silence of the midday sun, we close our eyes as Arturo recites an ancient prayer in the surrounds of a preserved open-air neolithic temple.
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This place has a rich history, having endured multiple occupations by colonial explorers and the many of the Guanches being sold into slavery, he tells us.
“Tenerife was duty-free for the sailors back in the day,” he says, informing us all of a no-doubt valuable future pub quiz fact that London’s Canary Wharf was so named because of the trade in tomatoes and other fresh produce shipped to England’s capital from this Canary island.
After our hike, Arturo promises us a time machine experience back at the resort, and to my amazement it’s only partly a joke.
The hotel has something I wasn’t expecting but am very impressed by – an underground museum and interpretation centre.
In almost pitch dark we enter different rooms which take us on a walk through the island’s history, from the island’s formation amid volcanic explosions millions of years go – complete with a rocking floor to immerse us in the experience – to the first inhabitants, settler invasions and emigration.
The experience has taught me that Tenerife has much more for visitors than lounging in the sun and Barcelo really offers the best of both worlds.
With our fill of history we’re ready to relax – did someone say margaritas by the pool? There are seven to choose from, including a heated one for rare chillier days.
For those who want to combine their relaxation with some light activity there’s also a lake for kayaking and a beach volleyball court.
My spacious room – one of 272 in the resort – has a terrace with a sea view in the extra-luxurious Royal Level, which is described as a “hotel within the hotel” because of the private pool and restaurant offerings.
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Guests certainly won’t go hungry, with restaurants across the resort offering everything from Italian to authentic Spanish.
At the former we enjoy burrata, pizzas and Aperols while the latter has a menu of fresh seafood including oysters, squid croquette and red prawn paella.
Even though I’m full to bursting, I squeeze in a slice of the traditional melt-in-the-mouth cheesecake with yuzu cream and it’s very much worth it.
Perhaps next time I will embark on that tough trek up Mount Teide, if just to work up an appetite for the delicacies on offer back at Barcelo.
How to do it
A visit to the San Blas Environmental Reserve – including a visit to the Interpretation Centre and a guided tour of the reserve – for guests is €15 for adults and €8 for children. Non-guest prices are €22.50 for adults, €14.50 for children.
Where to stay
Aine Fox travelled to Tenerife as a guest of Barcelo.
Barcelo Tenerife is just 10 minutes by car from Tenerife South airport.
Standard room rates range from €220–€520 per room, per night, including breakfast; while Royal Level rates are €330–€620 per room, per night, including breakfast.
