There was a wonderful moment a few years back at a kilt-makerin Inverurie when Prince Charles took the cup and saucer offered to him — likely a brew of the put-hairs-on-your-chest Scottish blend black tea than a second-flush Darjeeling from Fortnums — and topped it up with a dram of whisky. It seemed fitting for a man with such strong links to the UK’s northernmost country. The royal family has always adored Scotland, with its wild, craggy landscape, stark, icy-bright beaches and madly remote islands where Atlantic puffins, kittiwakes and razorbills outnumber humans thousands to one. The steadfast tradition here must also be part of the draw but King Charles and Queen Camilla are quick to embrace change, too. Last month they popped to Ballater, just down the road from Balmoral, to check out Fish Shop, their rather glam new local, sister to the much shouted-about Fife Arms hotel in nearby Braemar. Here they can pick up cod and chips taken to the next level. Scotland is fixing up and looking sharp.
EAST NEUK
