What to see
We’ve been visiting the beautiful town of Castine for the past 30 years. Nestled on a picturesque peninsula near Penobscot Bay, it’s close to the popular destinations of Blue Hill and Bar Harbor and boasts a charming, unparalleled serenity. The wide, central ‘Main Street’ leads to the town dock, where you can grab a lobster roll from Safe Harbor Cafe (5 Sea St, Castine) and watch boats, from schooners to dinghies, against the backdrop of the surrounding islands.
Don’t miss Dice Head Lighthouse at the edge of town. The views are stunning and the sky’s colour at sunset is truly magical. Lil’ Toot boat tours provides wonderful excursions in the harbour in Castine. There are also plenty of places to kayak, which we highly recommend as it’s a great way to see secret coves.
Castine boasts a rich architectural history, with homes dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. The town features diverse styles, from early colonial to stately Federal houses. Many of these historic buildings have been meticulously preserved, offering a glimpse into the architectural heritage of New England, such as Redwood (circa 1885), La Rochelle (1903), and Skylands (1925), the estate of Martha Stewart.
A hike in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor is a must. Encompassing all of Maine’s natural beauty and wildlife, you may even spot black bears. There are many different routes, but Cadillac Mountain is our favourite as it provides wonderful views of the entire park. If staying the night in the Mount Desert Island area, a trip to Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf (70 First Street, Old Orchard) is ridiculously fun. You don’t need kids to justify going — the long 18-hole mini-golf course follows a hilarious and informative history of famous pirates.
Where to shop
The greatest treasure of all is the Blue Hill Wine Shop, a converted barn turned into a wine lover’s dream. Max and Mary Treitler, the husband-and-wife owner team, are Blue Hill locals and their shop stocks a variety of cheeses lovingly chosen and an assortment of the finest groceries from around world. The team fulfils any wine requests, like the best rosé for lobster or the perfect red for steak.
Compass Rose Bookstore is a charming bookstore offers a wonderful selection of books, with a whole section dedicated to Maine authors (there are a lot!). Enjoy delicious coffee and treats while you browse. Meanwhile, Andre Strong is a bookseller which specialises in diaries and journals, gardening, history, fine bindings, collected letters, travel and literature related to Maine and New England.
Ronald Harte Antiques is the most eclectic shop is filled with art, pottery, curiosities, lamps and furniture. A favourite for decorators and architects, it offers a unique selection perfect for adding character to any space.
Where to eat & drink
Arborvine has stayed true to its mission of serving the freshest, locally sourced foods. Whatever the season, you can taste the best from regional farmers, fishermen and foragers.
Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound (1237 Bar Harbor Rd, Trenton; ) is a must-go dining stop. Perfect for lunch en route to Acadia National Park or alate dinner heading back, it’s located right off Route 3, just before the bridge on to Thompson’s and Mount Desert Island. It’s a landmark establishment and a favourite of Bar Harbor residents. You sit outside and crack and pick the lobster yourself, always accompanied by a bag of Lay’s salted crisps.
Our absolute favourite restaurant in Downeast Maine is Sammy’s Deluxe, located just outside Camden. The creative vibe is translated directly into their food, with beautiful and fun expressions of all of Downeast Maine’s freshest ingredients. Personal favourites include the smoked haddock on saltines and the halibut and beans in green garlic and lovage broth. The mismatched cutlery and assortment of random plates add to the charm.
Tinder Hearth is an off-the-beaten-track pizza shop with al fresco dining where you can sit in the magical garden surrounded by a sea of wildflowers, enjoying the thin-crust pizza from a stone oven with a daily changing menu. The place is so popular you can only book online on a Monday morning, and the reservations are gone within the minute. As it’s Maine, oysters and freshly made soft-serve ice cream with waffle cones are available in the garden.
Perched on bluffs above the beach in Deer Isle, Aragosta offers a delightful dining experience with beautiful coastal views. Known for its fresh seafood and creative dishes highlighting local ingredients, it’s a favourite spot for both locals and visitors.
Where to stay
The Pentagöet Inn & Pub is a delightful Queen Anne Victorian bed and breakfast in Mid-Coast Maine, perched on a seaside bluff amid majestic elms. The inn provides charming accommodations with views overlooking the historic village and harbour of Castine. Opposite the Pentagöet, you can pick up a sweet treat, a great coffee and a hand-picked book from Compass Rose Bookstore.
The historic Castine Inn was built in 1898 with its wraparound porch and great views of the harbour is located just one block from the water on Main Street. I love a late breakfast at The Castine in its splendid dining room — it’s famous for its biscuits and the hand-painted mural of the town.
The Claremont is near Acadia National Park, in Southwest Harbour, and offers chic cabanas, a heated outdoor pool, an onsite spa, multiple dining options and stunning views of Cadillac Mountain.
