New York
NYFW has already begun with a bang at Ralph Lauren, with a translucent hooded gown, winking with embellishment, that resembled high-fashion armour (a comment on the state of the nation and the need to steel oneself? Perhaps). It's most-anticipated show of AW26—Proenza Schouler—is showing today, however. It's Rachel Scott's inaugural collection as creative director, while her own label, Diotima, will be showing later in the week. Her appointment was met with something more than excitement, although there was plenty of that in the air. As one of the only women—not to mention women of colour—at the helm of a major design house, it's another (long-overdue) step towards parity in traditionally male-dominated spaces, in this case ateliers that, ironically, make clothes for women. Proenza Schouler has long been a byword for the kind of clothes that are easy to wear but make you look twice. With Scott's focus on craft, it's a debut that deserves the hype.
Elena Velez—whose designs have already been worn by fans including Jenna Ortega, Rosalía and Taylor Swift—will be showing her fourth collection as part of NYFW. Velez's clothes are reminiscent of historical garments with attitude—one skirt suit's bottom half currently on sale is strategically hoiked to reveal a under slip—and often flirt with controversy (Anna Delvey stepped on the catwalk, along with her tell-tale ankle monitor, last September). The American designers, with their sportswear DNA, are usually seen as being the most commercial of the core four. Not Velez, which is what makes her something of a wildcard.
Fforme is another one-to-watch. The American Phoebe Philo is how you could pitch it to someone who's not yet familiar with its easy artistic minimalism (see folded corset tops styled with chino-style pants for SS26).
London
London AW26's schedule will have no shortage of creative firebrands courtesy of famous talent incubator Fashion East, which last year celebrated 20 years. This season's line-up includes Jacek Gleba, Mayhew and newcomer Traiceline Pratt, whose designs have already been worn by A$AP Rocky.
Selasi is also making its first catwalk appearance in several years (its second to date). The brand is masterminded by creative, designer and curator Ronan Mckenzie, with the kind of clothes—thoughtful instead of trend-led—that have quietly won its legions of fans that appreciate her ability to blend fashion, books, flowers, you name it, with the label's spirit (Bibi Abdulkadir leaves an emoji under almost every post on Instagram). With a name that means "God hears me" from the Ghanaian Ewe, Selasi brings together its founder's multidisciplinary practices—making scent to furniture to original scores—all imbued with a sense of self-trust and belief that grounds every garment.
Joseph is returning to show after a hiatus of several years (its last creative director, Louise Trotter, is now at the helm of Bottega Veneta). Although its ready-to-wear comprises refined tailoring that's still the best in the business, its catwalk offering used to be boundary-pushing and, typically for London Fashion Week, usually shown in a dank warehouse. Will it return to its grungy roots under Mario Arena (a man who has form when it comes to edge with previous stints at Christopher Kane, as head of ready-to-wear, and JW Anderson, where he served as director of product and design)? We'll see but it looks promising.
Milan
It's debut season (again!) in Milan, with big-hitters arriving at three of the city's most historic (and influential) brands. Maria Grazia Chiuri will be presenting her first collection for Fendi, with the show scheduled on Wednesday 25 February. Excitingly, another woman also makes her debut at Marni, Meryll Rogge, on the following day, Thursday 26 February. With her eponymous label to simultaneously manage, Rogge is joining the ranks of newly-appointed creative directors wearing two hats such as Rachel Scott, making it a truly game-changing time for women firing on all cylinders.
Finally, Demna, who'll be making his hotly-anticipated catwalk debut at Gucci (Friday 27 February). While he's already made his mark, with a lookbook that caused more than a frisson of excitement as he created house characters such as "La VIP", "Milanesca" and "La Bomba" for SS26, this show will be his masterplan for the brand, a blueprint that could put Gucci, flailing somewhat after a few years of creative director comings and goings, back on top.
Paris
As well as a debut, a designer's final collection for a brand can be a bittersweet moment. That will almost certainly be the case at Alaïa, who is bidding farewell to Pieter Mulier, the man who is just in at Versace.
Elsewhere, second seasons can be just as telling as firsts, with the opportunity to either surprise or cement (see Dior, Jonathan Anderson will be presenting his second womenswear collection, Loewe and Jean Paul Gaultier).
